1930s Finger Waves: The Ultimate Guide to Vintage Glamour

When we think of the Golden Age of Hollywood, a specific image often comes to mind: the silver screen siren with impeccable makeup, a bias-cut gown, and hair that looks like liquid sculpture. Among the most iconic hairstyles of this era, 1930s finger waves stand out as a testament to sophistication and artistry. Unlike the sharp, rebellious bobs of the roaring twenties, the hairstyles of the 1930s evolved into something softer, more feminine, and undeniably romantic. Today, this look remains a pinnacle of hairdressing skill, requested frequently for weddings, red carpet events, and vintage-themed soirees.

Finger waves are not merely a hairstyle; they are a statement of elegance. The technique involves shaping the hair into S-shaped curves (ridges) using fingers and a comb, often combined with a setting lotion to lock the style in place. While the look originated in the 1920s, the 1930s iteration brought a distinct change in silhouette. As hemlines dropped and fashion became more body-conscious, hairstyles followed suit. The waves became looser, often cascading down the neck or pinned up to simulate a shorter length without cutting the hair. It was a time of transition, where the severe geometry of the Art Deco period began to meld with a softer, more fluid aesthetic.

In this comprehensive guide, we will delve deep into the world of 1930s finger waves. We will explore the historical context that popularized the look, the specific tools and products required to achieve it, and the step-by-step techniques for both purist wet sets and modern heat styling. Whether you are a professional stylist looking to refine your vintage skills or a hair enthusiast aiming to recreate this look for a special occasion, understanding the intricacies of the finger wave is essential.

The Evolution of the Wave: 1920s vs. 1930s

To truly appreciate 1930s finger waves, one must understand how they differ from their predecessors. The 1920s were defined by the "Flapper"—a figure of rebellion who chopped off her Victorian locks in favor of a short, boyish bob. The finger waves of the 1920s were typically worn on very short hair, creating a skull-hugging, helmet-like appearance. These waves were tight, sharp, and often covered the entire head. It was a look that screamed modernity and defiance against traditional gender norms.

However, as the calendar turned to the 1930s, the mood shifted. The Great Depression influenced fashion significantly; clothes were mended and lengthened, and a more somber, yet glamorous, aesthetic took hold. Hollywood became the ultimate form of escapism. Stars like Jean Harlow, Bette Davis, and Marlene Dietrich began growing out their bobs. The 1930s finger wave adapted to this new length. Instead of the wave starting at the very top of the head and continuing tightly to the ends, the 1930s style often featured a smoother crown with waves starting at the temple or ear level. The ridges were softer, and the ends were often curled into fluffy clusters or pinned into a "faux bob" to maintain the illusion of shortness while allowing for more versatility.

This evolution is crucial for modern styling. When a client requests "vintage waves," they are often picturing the 1930s variation rather than the severe 1920s look. The 1930s style is universally flattering, framing the face with soft undulations rather than harsh lines. It represents a maturation of the style—less about shock value and more about cultivating an aura of mysterious, untouchable beauty. Understanding this historical nuance allows stylists to tailor the look to the individual, creating a style that feels authentic yet wearable in the 21st century.

The Anatomy of a Perfect Finger Wave

At its core, a finger wave is a bi-dimensional sculpture made of hair. It relies on the manipulation of the hair shaft while it is wet (or heated) to create a permanent or semi-permanent bend. The structure consists of two main components: the ridge and the trough (or hollow). The ridge is the high point of the wave, the part that catches the light and creates that signature glossy sheen. The trough is the concave section between the ridges. A continuous alternating pattern of ridges and troughs creates the "S" shape that defines the style.

Achieving a clean ridge is the most challenging aspect of 1930s finger waves. It requires tension and precision. In a traditional wet set, the hair is saturated with a setting lotion—a viscous product that becomes rigid when dry. The stylist uses a fine-tooth comb to direct the hair in a C-shape, holds the ridge with a finger, and then directs the hair in the opposite direction to complete the S-shape. The "pinching" of the ridge is a delicate art; pinch too hard, and the ridge collapses or separates; pinch too lightly, and the wave disappears once dry.

The placement of these waves is equally important. In the 1930s, deep side parts were de rigueur. The waves would typically flow asymmetrically, with the "heavy" side of the part featuring prominent, cascading waves that framed the eye and cheekbone. The "light" side might be slicked back or feature a smaller, tighter wave pattern. This asymmetry draws attention to the eyes and cheekbones, acting as a natural contour for the face. The ends of the hair in a 1930s style were rarely left straight; they were usually pin-curled to create a soft, fluffy finish that contrasted beautifully with the sleek, structured waves at the top.

Essential Tools and Products for the Look

Creating authentic 1930s finger waves requires a specific toolkit. Unlike modern beach waves that rely on salt spray and a curling wand, this vintage style is built on structure and hold. The most critical product is setting lotion. Traditional setting lotions are liquid-based and dry to a crisp finish, which is then brushed out to reveal a soft but structured wave. Modern alternatives include strong-hold mousses or styling gels, but for the most authentic wet-look finish or a sturdy base for a brush-out, a professional setting lotion is superior.

You will also need a fine-tooth tail comb. The tail is used for creating precise partings and sectioning the hair, while the fine teeth are essential for combing the hair smooth and directing the ridge. Duckbill clips or classic metal wave clamps are necessary to hold the ridges in place while the hair dries. These clips prevent the gravity of wet hair from pulling the wave straight. For the ends of the hair, pin curl clips are used to secure small circles of hair flat against the scalp.

If you are opting for a heat-based method (a modern adaptation), the tools change slightly. A small-barrel curling iron (typically 3/4 inch or 1 inch) is used to create the initial curl pattern. However, the styling products shift towards thermal protectants and flexible hold hairsprays. A boar bristle brush is indispensable for both methods. Once the waves are set and dry, the brush is used to polish the hair, merging the separated curls into a single, cohesive sheet of hair—a technique known as "brushing out the set." This step transforms tight, crispy curls into the luxurious, velvet-like waves associated with 1930s glamour.

The Traditional Wet Set Technique

The wet set is the purist's approach to 1930s finger waves and offers the most longevity and authenticity. This method is best performed on damp hair that has been generously applied with setting gel or lotion. The process begins by creating a deep side part, which immediately establishes the vintage silhouette. Starting on the heavy side of the part, the hair is combed smooth. The stylist places their middle finger against the scalp to anchor the hair, then places the comb just below the finger, dragging the hair forward (towards the face) about an inch.

Without lifting the comb or the finger, the comb is then slid backward (away from the face) while the finger holds the hair in place. This push-pull motion creates a ridge of hair that rises between the comb and the finger. This ridge is the foundation of the wave. Once the ridge is established, it is clamped with a wave clip or held securely while the next section is formed. The stylist then moves down the hair shaft, reversing the direction to create the bottom half of the S-shape. This process is repeated down the length of the head.

The wet set requires patience, as the hair must dry completely before the clips are removed. This is often done under a hooded dryer in professional salons. If the hair is disturbed while damp, the structural integrity of the wave breaks down, resulting in frizz rather than defined ridges. Once fully dry, the hair is rigid. The final step involves gently brushing through the waves to break the "cast" of the product, turning the hard ridges into soft, glossy undulations. A light pomade is often smoothed over the surface to tame flyaways and add that signature glass-like shine.

Modern Adaptations: Heat Styling for Speed

While the wet set is the gold standard for authenticity, modern salon environments and time constraints often call for faster methods. Heat styling can mimic the look of 1930s finger waves with surprising accuracy. This technique, often called the "Marcel wave" method (named after the Marcel curling iron), uses a curling iron to create the ridges. The stylist takes a horizontal section of hair and places the curling iron barrel underneath the hair strand, close to the root.

The key difference here is the manipulation of the iron. Instead of wrapping the hair around the barrel, the stylist clamps the iron and rotates it back and forth to create a ridge, or physically manipulates the hair into an S-shape while it is hot, pinning it flat to cool. Alternatively, a deep-barrel waver (a tool with three barrels) can be used to press a wave pattern into the hair instantly. While faster, deep wavers can sometimes look too uniform or "crimped" if not used with finesse.

Another popular modern technique involves curling the entire head with a curling iron in the same direction (a "unidirectional set"). Once the curls cool, they are brushed vigorously. Because all the curls were wound in the same direction, they snap together like a puzzle, forming a continuous wave pattern. Clips are then inserted into the natural ridges that form, and the hair is sprayed with firm-hold hairspray. This "Hollywood Wave" is a staple for modern brides who want the 1930s vibe without the stiffness of a traditional wet set. It offers movement and touchability while retaining the vintage aesthetic.

Styling 1930s Waves for Different Hair Types

One of the most common misconceptions is that finger waves only work on straight, fine hair. In reality, 1930s finger waves can be adapted for a variety of textures, though the technique must be adjusted. For fine, straight hair, the challenge is volume and hold. Using a heavy styling mousse and ensuring the hair is completely dry before removing clips is vital. Backcombing (teasing) the hair gently at the roots before smoothing the top layer can provide the necessary volume that defined the late 1930s styles.

For thick or coarse hair, the wet set is often more effective than heat styling, as the drying process resets the hair's hydrogen bonds into the new shape more permanently. However, thick hair requires smaller sections to ensuring the setting lotion penetrates and the clips can hold the weight of the ridge. The drying time will be significantly longer.

Natural curls and textured hair were also styled into finger waves during the 1930s. The key here is moisture and tension. The hair needs to be thoroughly detangled and smoothed with a heavy gel or setting cream to temporarily straighten the natural curl pattern and mold it into the larger S-waves. For highly textured hair, a "hard press" or silk press might be performed first to smooth the cuticle, followed by the waving process. The result on textured hair is often incredibly sculptural and long-lasting due to the hair's natural ability to hold shape.

Accessorizing the Look

No 1930s hairstyle is complete without the appropriate accessories. The transition from the Art Deco geometry of the 20s to the Hollywood regency of the 30s brought about sparkle and shine. Hair clips and combs adorned with rhinestones or pearls were frequently used to pin back one side of the hair, accentuating the asymmetry of the style. These were often placed right at the temple or just behind the ear on the side with less volume.

For evening wear, feathers and fabric flowers were popular additions. A silk flower pinned low behind the ear added a touch of softness that complemented the romantic waves. For a more dramatic look, fine netting or a birdcage veil could be placed over the face, adding an air of mystery. When recreating this look today, selecting vintage-inspired barrettes or combs can elevate the hairstyle from a simple costume look to a sophisticated, red-carpet-ready ensemble. The placement is key: accessories should enhance the flow of the wave, not interrupt it.

Maintenance and Longevity

A professional finger wave style is an investment of time and artistry, so preserving it is a priority for clients. 1930s finger waves, particularly those created via wet set, are surprisingly durable if treated correctly. Moisture and humidity are the enemies. Clients should be advised to use a shower cap to protect the style from steam and water. In the 1930s, women often slept with a silk scarf or hair net tied securely around the head to keep the ridges flat and prevent friction against the pillow from causing frizz.

To refresh the style, one should not use a brush immediately. Instead, using the fingers to gently push the ridges back into place is recommended. A light mist of shine spray can revive the glossy finish. If the ends become frizzy, a small amount of hair oil or serum can be twisted into the pin curls at the bottom. With proper care, a wet-set finger wave style can last for several days, evolving from a structured, sculptural look on day one to a softer, fluffier wave on day three—both of which are historically accurate and beautiful.

Tips for Success

• Saturation is Key: For wet sets, the hair must be audibly "squishy" with product. If the hair begins to dry while you are molding it, spray it with water immediately.

• Clean Partings: The side part must be razor-sharp. A messy part ruins the sleek aesthetic.

• Patience with Drying: Never remove clips until the hair is 100% dry. Even a hint of dampness will cause the ridge to collapse.

• Mirror Work: Check the back of the head. The waves should continue seamlessly around the head, not just frame the face.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: Can I get 1930s finger waves if I have long hair?

A: Absolutely. While the 1920s style required short hair, the 1930s style embraced length. For long hair, the top is waved, and the remaining length is typically pinned up into a faux bob or styled into soft curls at the nape of the neck to simulate the era's silhouette.

Q: How long does a finger wave style take to create?

A: It depends on the method. A traditional wet set requires about 45-60 minutes of styling time, plus extensive drying time (often 45+ minutes under a hood dryer). A heat-styled version can be completed in 60-90 minutes depending on hair thickness.

Q: Is the wet set method damaging to hair?

A: On the contrary, the wet set is one of the gentlest styling methods available. Because it relies on water and setting lotion rather than extreme heat (like flat irons or curling wands), it causes very little damage to the hair structure.

Q: Will finger waves work on layered hair?

A: Layers can make finger waves tricky because the ends of the layers may pop out of the ridge pattern. However, an experienced stylist can use extra product and strategic pinning to tuck these ends away. Long, one-length hair is generally easier to work with, but layers are not a dealbreaker.

Q: Can I wear this style for an outdoor wedding?

A: You can, but humidity is a factor. If the weather is humid or rainy, the waves may frizz or drop. Using humidity-resistant hairspray and opting for a firmer wet set rather than a soft heat style will provide the best chance of survival outdoors.

Q: Do I need a specific haircut for this style?

A: While you don't need a specific cut, having a face-framing cut (like the "Midi" cut popular in the vintage community) helps. However, almost any cut can be manipulated into this style with the right pins and product.

Conclusion

1930s finger waves remain one of the most exquisite examples of hair artistry. They represent a time when styling was deliberate, sculptural, and unapologetically glamorous. Whether you are channeling a screen siren for a gala or simply want to experience the luxury of a vintage set, this hairstyle offers a transformative power that few modern looks can match. By understanding the history, mastering the technique, and using the right products, the elegance of the 1930s can be brought effortlessly into the present day. For those seeking this intricate style, visiting a professional salon with experience in vintage hairstyling is the best way to ensure you achieve those perfect, glossy ridges that have captivated the world for nearly a century.