1940s Victory Rolls: The Ultimate Vintage Hairstyle Guide | Timeless Elegance
1940s Victory Rolls: The Ultimate Guide to the Era's Most Iconic Hairstyle
When one thinks of the 1940s, certain images immediately come to mind: swing music, red lipstick, utility fashion, and undoubtedly, the Victory Roll. This hairstyle is not merely a fashion statement; it is a piece of history sculpted into a silhouette that defined a generation. Of all the vintage hairstyles that have seen a resurgence in the modern rockabilly and retro scenes, Victory Rolls remain the most recognizable and requested look in professional salons today.
Despite their intricate appearance, Victory Rolls were born out of necessity and patriotism during World War II. They represent a unique intersection of practicality and glamour, a balance that women of the era mastered perfectly. Whether you are looking to recreate this look for a themed event, a photoshoot, or simply to embrace a vintage aesthetic in your daily life, understanding the architecture of the style is essential.
In this comprehensive guide, we will delve deep into the history behind the name, the anatomy of the perfect roll, the tools required by professional stylists, and a detailed step-by-step process to achieve gravity-defying volume. We will also explore how to adapt this classic look for different hair types and modern contexts.
The History and Symbolism: Why "Victory"?
To truly appreciate this hairstyle, one must understand the context in which it emerged. The term "Victory Rolls" is widely believed to have been inspired by the aerobatic maneuver of fighter planes during World War II. Pilots would spin their planes horizontally to celebrate a victory or to signal their safe return to base. The circular, voluminous shape of the hair mimicked the spin of the aircraft, and the name caught on as a patriotic gesture.
However, the symbolism goes deeper than just aviation terminology. During the war, women entered the workforce in unprecedented numbers, taking up jobs in factories and munitions plants. Long, flowing hair was a safety hazard around heavy machinery. Women needed hairstyles that kept their hair off their faces and collars while still maintaining a sense of femininity and morale. The Victory Roll was the perfect solution: it pulled the front sections of the hair up and away from the face, secured tightly, while the back could be pinned up in a snood or styled in a controlled manner.
Furthermore, beauty was considered a duty. Maintaining one's appearance was seen as a way to keep morale high, both for the women themselves and for the soldiers fighting abroad. The structural integrity of the Victory Roll, often achieved with sugar water or pipe cleaners in the absence of luxury hair products, symbolized the resilience and strength of the women on the home front. Today, it stands as a testament to that era's enduring spirit.
The Anatomy of a Victory Roll
Before picking up a comb, it is helpful to visualize what a Victory Roll actually is. Structurally, it is a section of hair that is teased (backcombed) for volume, smoothed on the outer surface, and then rolled inward or outward toward the scalp, where it is pinned securely. The result is a hollow, cylindrical shape that defies gravity.
Types of Rolls
There are several variations of the style, each offering a different silhouette:- The Classic Top Rolls: These are the most common variation, featuring two symmetrical rolls placed high on the top of the head. They often form a "V" shape, further reinforcing the victory theme.
- The Asymmetrical Roll: A single, large roll on one side of the part, often balanced by a flower or a smaller curl on the opposite side. This was a popular choice for glamorous evening wear.
- The Bumper Bang: A continuous roll that spans across the forehead, mimicking the look of bangs without cutting the hair. This is sometimes referred to as a "bettie page" style faux-bang, though the construction is similar to a victory roll.
- Side Rolls: Rolls placed lower on the head, above the ears, framing the face rather than adding height to the crown.
Understanding these variations allows for customization based on face shape and hair texture. For example, a round face shape often benefits from high, vertical top rolls to elongate the profile, while a long face shape may look best with lower side rolls to add width.
Essential Tools for Vintage Styling
Achieving the smooth, sculptural look of 1940s Victory Rolls requires specific tools. While modern technology has given us better hairspray, the foundational tools remain largely unchanged from the vintage era. Preparation is 90% of the success when creating structural updos.
The Toolkit
- Rat-Tail Comb: This is non-negotiable. The fine tail is used for precise sectioning (creating clean parts is crucial), and the fine teeth are essential for backcombing (teasing) the hair to create the necessary cushion.
- Setting Lotion or Mousse: Vintage styles rely on "grip." Freshly washed, soft hair is the enemy of a Victory Roll. A good setting lotion or a strong-hold mousse applied to damp hair before drying provides the texture needed for the hair to hold its shape.
- Bobby Pins and U-Pins: You will need standard bobby pins that match the hair color. It is vital that these pins have good tension. U-pins can be helpful for anchoring accessories, but bobby pins are the structural beams of the roll.
- Strong-Hold Hairspray: A lacquer-style hairspray is traditional, but modern flexible-hold sprays allow for working time before the style sets. A working spray is used during the rolling process, and a freezing spray is used to lock it in.
- Curling Iron or Hot Rollers: While the 1940s method involved wet sets and overnight drying, a 1-inch barrel curling iron is the modern shortcut to getting the necessary bend in the hair ends, which makes rolling significantly easier.
Step-by-Step Guide to Creating Victory Rolls
This tutorial focuses on the classic symmetrical top rolls, the quintessential 1940s look. It is recommended to practice this on "second-day" hair, as the natural oils provide better hold than freshly shampooed hair.
Step 1: Preparation and Sectioning
Begin by brushing through dry hair to remove tangles. If the hair is slippery, spray a dry texture spray or dry shampoo throughout the roots and mid-lengths. Create a clean part. For symmetrical rolls, a center part or a deep side part can be used, but the sectioning for the rolls themselves must be precise. Create a "horseshoe" section or two large triangles at the front of the hairline. Clip the rest of the hair back to keep it out of the way.Step 2: The Foundation (Teasing)
Take one of the front sections. Hold the hair straight up, perpendicular to the scalp. Using the rat-tail comb, backcomb the hair aggressively. Start about two inches from the scalp and push the hair down toward the roots. Repeat this process, moving up the hair shaft, until the section stands up on its own. This "tease" acts as the stuffing inside a pillow—it provides the volume and structure. Do not skip this step; without teasing, the roll will be flat and lifeless.Step 3: Smoothing the Surface
Once the section looks like a bird's nest, take the boar bristle brush. Very gently, brush the side of the section that will be visible (the outer layer). The goal is to smooth the cuticle so it looks shiny and polished while leaving the knotted mess underneath undisturbed. Spray this smoothed section with a light working hairspray.Step 4: Rolling and Shaping
This is the most technical part. Take the ends of the smoothed section. If the ends are straight, use a curling iron to give them a slight curl inward; this acts as a hook to start the roll. Loop the ends around your fingers and begin rolling the hair down toward the scalp. You can roll inward (toward the part) or outward (away from the part), though inward is more traditional for the "V" shape.As you roll down, use your fingers to guide the shape. You want a hollow circle. When the roll reaches the scalp, it should sit firmly on the teased base. Adjust the shape to ensure it is round and voluminous.
Step 5: Pinning and Anchoring
Once the roll is positioned, hold it firmly with one hand. With the other hand, insert a bobby pin through the inside of the roll, catching the hair at the scalp. The pin should be hidden inside the tunnel of the roll. Use a "locking" technique: insert the pin slightly in the opposite direction, then flip it and push it in to anchor it securely. You will likely need 2-4 pins per roll. Place pins at the front and back of the roll to prevent it from flopping.Step 6: The Finish
Repeat the process on the other side. Check for symmetry in a mirror. Once satisfied, mist heavily with strong-hold hairspray. Smooth any flyaways with the back of the comb or your fingers. If the rest of the hair is down, curl the ends under to complement the soft lines of the rolls. If putting the hair up, gather the back into a low bun or French twist.Troubleshooting Common Challenges
Even experienced stylists sometimes struggle with the physics of Victory Rolls. Here are solutions to common issues that arise during styling.
The Roll is Floppy
If the roll falls over or feels loose, the issue is usually in the teasing (backcombing) or the pinning. The base must be teased firmly enough to support the weight of the hair. If the teasing is sufficient but the roll still wobbles, try using "duckbill" clips to hold the roll in place while the hairspray sets, then add more bobby pins in an "X" formation at the base for extra stability.The Hair is Too Clean
Silky, healthy hair is wonderful, but terrible for vintage styling. If the hair is sliding out of the pins, dirty it up. Use a sea salt spray, a texturizing powder, or a dry wax spray. These products add grit to the hair cuticle, allowing the strands to lock together when teased and pinned.Visible Partings
Sometimes, separating the front sections creates visible scalp lines that ruin the illusion. To avoid this, take zigzag partings rather than straight lines when sectioning the back from the front. Additionally, after the roll is pinned, gently use the tail of the comb to pull small strands of hair over any gaps or exposed scalp areas, spraying them into place.Modern Adaptations for Today's Wear
While the strict 1940s silhouette is stunning, modern fashion often calls for a softer interpretation. Victory Rolls can be adapted to suit contemporary aesthetics without losing their vintage charm.
The "Half-Roll": Instead of a tight, structural cylinder, create a looser, draped roll that pins further back on the head. This looks softer and blends beautifully with beach waves or loose curls.
Braided Rolls: For a bohemian twist, braid the section of hair before rolling it. This adds texture and visual interest, moving the style from 1940s factory worker to modern festival chic.
Short Hair Solutions: Those with bobbed hair or lobs (long bobs) can still achieve this look. Since Victory Rolls are primarily focused on the top lengths, short hair is actually easier to manage as there is less weight dragging the roll down. For very short hair (pixie cuts), smaller "pin curls" can mimic the look of a roll without requiring the length.
Professional Tips for Longevity
For clients attending weddings or all-day events, longevity is key. Professional stylists utilize a technique called "cooling." If using heat to prep the hair, the hair must cool completely in the curled shape before being brushed out or rolled. Warm hair changes shape; cool hair holds shape.
Additionally, the choice of hairspray matters. A "wet" spray can sometimes dissolve the teasing if applied too heavily. A dry aerosol spray is preferred for the final hold. Finally, always bring a small travel kit containing a few extra bobby pins and a travel-size hairspray. Even the most securely pinned styles can shift after hours of dancing or movement.
FAQ: Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Do I need long hair for Victory Rolls? A: Not necessarily. Shoulder-length hair is actually ideal, as it is long enough to roll but light enough to stay up easily. Very long, heavy hair requires significantly more pinning and teasing to combat gravity.
Q: Can I do Victory Rolls on curly hair? A: Absolutely. In fact, natural texture can help hold the style better than straight hair. You may need to smooth the hair slightly with a blow dryer first to get a clean finish on the outer layer, but the internal volume of curly hair is a huge asset.
Q: How do I sleep with this hairstyle? A: In the 1940s, women would often wrap their hair in a silk scarf or use a satin pillowcase to preserve the style for the next day. However, Victory Rolls are generally best styled fresh. If you must sleep in them, secure them with a scarf to prevent friction, but expect to do some reshaping in the morning.
Q: Why do my rolls look frizzy? A: Frizz usually happens when the teasing on the underside pokes through the smoothed top layer. Ensure you are using a boar bristle brush to polish the top layer thoroughly before rolling. A pomade or wax stick applied to the surface can also tame flyaways.
Q: Is this style damaging to hair? A: Extensive backcombing can be damaging if not removed correctly. Never try to brush the tangles out of dry, hairsprayed hair. To remove Victory Rolls, take the pins out, apply a heavy conditioner or oil to the hair, and gently detangle with a wide-tooth comb in the shower before shampooing.
Conclusion
1940s Victory Rolls are more than just a retro hairstyle; they are a celebration of structural beauty and historical resilience. While they may seem intimidating at first glance, the technique is built on logical steps of preparation, volume, and pinning. With the right tools—specifically a rat-tail comb and setting lotion—and a bit of patience, anyone can master this look.
Whether styling for a costume party, a vintage lifestyle, or simply to add a touch of classic glamour to a Tuesday, Victory Rolls make a bold, sophisticated statement. They remind us that elegance requires effort, but the result is timeless.
