1980s Perms and Mullets: The Iconic Return of Retro Volume | Style Guide

Introduction: The Era of Excess and Volume

When we look back at the fashion landscape of the 20th century, few decades stand out as vividly as the 1980s. It was a time defined by excess, vibrant colors, bold silhouettes, and, most importantly, massive hair. The mantra "bigger is better" was not just applied to shoulder pads and boomboxes; it was the golden rule of hair styling. At the forefront of this volumetric revolution were two distinct yet often overlapping styles: 1980s perms and mullets. These hairstyles were not merely cosmetic choices; they were cultural statements that transcended gender, class, and geography, appearing on everyone from high-profile rock stars to suburban office workers.

For years, these looks were relegated to the realm of costume parties and ironic throwbacks. However, the fashion cycle is circular, and we are currently witnessing a massive resurgence of 80s-inspired aesthetics. Modern salons are seeing an influx of requests for textured shags, wolf cuts, and digital perms that pay homage to the original 1980s perms and mullets while adapting them for a contemporary audience. Understanding the history, the mechanics, and the modern adaptations of these styles is essential for anyone looking to embrace the retro revival.

This comprehensive guide delves deep into the chemistry of the curl, the geometry of the mullet, and the cultural impact of 1980s hair. Whether you are a hair history buff or a client considering a bold transformation, this exploration of 1980s perms and mullets provides the ultimate roadmap to achieving retro glory with modern sophistication.

The 1980s Perm: Chemistry and Culture

The Quest for Permanent Waves

The perm, short for "permanent wave," was the absolute cornerstone of 1980s hair culture. While perms existed long before the Reagan era, the 1980s introduced new chemical formulations and winding techniques that allowed for tighter curls and unprecedented volume. In this decade, straight hair was often seen as a lack of effort; texture was the goal. The process involved breaking the disulfide bonds in the hair shaft using a reducing agent (usually ammonium thioglycolate for alkaline perms), wrapping the hair around rods, and then reforming those bonds in the new shape using a neutralizer. This chemical restructuring allowed even the finest, straightest hair to achieve gravity-defying heights.

There were various types of perms that dominated the scene. The "spiral perm" was particularly popular among those with longer hair, creating corkscrew ringlets that cascaded down the back, famously worn by icons like Sarah Jessica Parker and Cher. The "root perm" focused solely on the hair near the scalp to provide lift without necessarily curling the ends, ideal for adding volume to short, flat cuts. Then there was the infamous "spot perm," used to curl specific sections of hair to support a particular style. The smell of perm solution—a pungent mix of ammonia and sulfur—became the signature scent of salons worldwide, signaling that a transformation was underway.

The Maintenance of the Mane

Having a perm in the 1980s was a lifestyle commitment. The care routine was rigorous. Because the chemical process stripped moisture from the cuticle, hair became porous and prone to frizz. This necessitated an entire industry of specialized products. Mousse became a staple in every bathroom cabinet, used to define curls and add crunch-free (or often, very crunchy) hold. Diffusers—blow dryer attachments that dispersed air to dry curls without blowing them apart—became essential tools. The look required daily teasing, spraying, and scrunching to maintain the desired width and height.

Despite the damage often caused by over-processing, the popularity of the perm did not wane until the grunge era of the 90s took hold. Today, the "modern perm" has returned, but with significant improvements. Current formulations are much gentler, often using amino acids and lower pH levels to alter hair texture without the extreme damage associated with 1980s perms. The goal has shifted from tight, frizzy poodles to soft, beachy waves and structured texture, proving that the perm is a versatile service that has stood the test of time.

The Mullet: Business in the Front, Party in the Back

Anatomy of a Contradiction

If the perm was the queen of 1980s hair, the mullet was undoubtedly the king. The mullet is defined by its distinct dual length: short and trimmed on the top and sides, and long in the back. This silhouette created a unique profile that was simultaneously neat and rebellious. The phrase "business in the front, party in the back" perfectly encapsulates the dichotomy of the style. It allowed the wearer to maintain a semblance of professional grooming while displaying length that signaled a free-spirited nature. It was a gender-neutral cut, worn famously by men like Billy Ray Cyrus and Patrick Swayze, and women like Joan Jett.

The 1980s mullet was rarely a subtle affair. It was often characterized by choppy layers on top, sometimes spiked with gel, transitioning into a long, often permed, cascade of hair at the nape of the neck. The contrast was key; the greater the difference between the front and back lengths, the more aggressive the mullet. Variations included the "skullet" (shaved head with long back) and the "fem-mullet," which often incorporated softer, feathered bangs. It was a haircut that demanded attention and confidence, becoming a symbol of the working class and rock subcultures alike.

The Cultural Iconography

The mullet's ubiquity in the 1980s cannot be overstated. It was the hairstyle of professional wrestlers, country singers, and heavy metal guitarists. It appeared in high fashion editorials and high school yearbooks with equal frequency. The mullet represented a specific kind of rugged individualism. In Europe, it was associated with footballers; in the United States, it became a symbol of heartland rock and roll. The hairstyle permeated pop culture so deeply that it became shorthand for the decade itself.

Interestingly, the mullet faced a period of ridicule in the late 90s and 2000s, often mocked as a symbol of bad taste. However, fashion is cyclical. The modern reinterpretation of the mullet—often called the "wolf cut" or "shaglet"—has stripped away the irony. Today's mullet is softer, more blended, and highly textural. It relies on razor cutting to create movement and reduce bulk, making it a flatter option for various face shapes. The connection to the 1980s remains, but the execution is decidedly modern, focusing on cool, undone texture rather than rigid separation.

The Permed Mullet: The Ultimate Hybrid

Combining the Titans

When the structural shape of the mullet met the textural volume of the perm, the "permed mullet" was born. This was arguably the peak of 1980s hair evolution. By perming the long hair in the back (and often the top as well), the mullet achieved a level of volume and presence that straight hair simply could not provide. This style was famously sported by members of bands like Mötley Crüe, Bon Jovi, and Def Leppard. The curls added width to the long section, creating a triangular silhouette that mirrored the broad-shouldered fashion of the time.

The permed mullet required expert styling. The short hair on top was often blow-dried up and back for height, while the curls in the back were scrunched with gel or mousse to define the ringlets. This look was not for the faint of heart. It required a significant amount of product to combat humidity and gravity. The permed mullet was the ultimate expression of the "excess" culture—it was loud, it was large, and it took up space.

The Jheri Curl Influence

A specific and culturally significant variation of the permed mullet in the Black community was the Jheri curl (or Jerry curl). Invented by hairdresser Jheri Redding, this style gave hair a glossy, loosely curled look. It became iconic in the 1980s, worn by superstars like Michael Jackson and Lionel Richie. While not always cut into a strict mullet shape, many Jheri curl styles featured the graduated lengths typical of the mullet silhouette—shorter on top and longer in the back. This style relied on a two-step chemical process and required constant moisture (activator spray) to maintain the signature wet look and prevent breakage.

The legacy of these hybrid styles is evident in modern "curly shags." Clients with natural curls are now embracing the mullet shape because it removes weight from the interior, allowing their curls to spring up and frame the face. The marriage of the perm and the mullet in the 80s laid the groundwork for today's obsession with texture and movement.

Modern Adaptations: The Wolf Cut and Shag

From Retro to Viral

The resurgence of 1980s perms and mullets in the 2020s has been fueled largely by social media platforms like TikTok and Instagram. However, these aren't exact replicas of the 1986 styles; they are refined adaptations. The "Wolf Cut" is the most prominent example. It combines the choppy layers of a shag with the length disparity of a mullet. It is wild and disconnected but styled with a softer, more organic finish. Unlike the stiff, hairspray-laden mullets of the past, the Wolf Cut is all about movement and touchability.

Similarly, the request for perms has skyrocketed, but the terminology has changed. Clients ask for "body waves," "beach texture," or "Korean digital perms." These services aim to replicate the volume of the 80s without the tight, uniform poodle curl. Modern styling tools, such as larger perm rods and bond-building additives (like Olaplex), protect the hair during the process, ensuring the result is healthy and shiny rather than fried and frizzy. The modern perm is customizable, allowing for loose waves in the back and tighter curls around the face, blending the best of 80s volume with modern aesthetics.

Celebrity Influence

Contemporary celebrities have played a massive role in normalizing these retro cuts. Stars like Miley Cyrus, Billie Eilish, and Rihanna have all sported variations of the mullet, proving its versatility. On the perm front, actors like Timothée Chalamet have popularized the "boy perm," a messy, curly look that adds volume to men's hair. This celebrity endorsement has moved 1980s perms and mullets from the category of "dated" to "cutting-edge."

Professional salons are now seeing a diverse range of clients requesting these looks. It is no longer just for the alternative crowd; corporate professionals are opting for soft mullets that can be tucked away or styled up. The adaptability of the cut means it can be tailored to suit different face shapes and hair textures, making the 80s revival inclusive and accessible.

Styling Tips for the Retro Revival

Achieving and maintaining a 1980s-inspired look requires the right approach to styling. Whether you have a fresh perm or a razor-cut mullet, here are professional tips to keep the style looking intentional.

• Embrace the Diffuser: If you have a perm or natural curls cut into a mullet, the diffuser attachment on your blow dryer is your best friend. It dries the hair without disturbing the curl pattern, reducing frizz and maximizing volume.

• Product Layering: Start with a leave-in conditioner to hydrate processed hair. Follow with a curl-defining cream or mousse. Finish with a texture spray or light-hold hairspray. The "crunchy" gel look of the 80s is generally avoided today; aim for soft definition.

• Root Lift: To get that authentic 80s height, apply a root-lifting spray or volumizing powder to the crown area. Blow-dry the hair upside down or use velcro rollers on the top section while the hair cools.

• Deep Conditioning: Chemical services like perms compromise the hair's protein structure. A weekly deep conditioning mask is non-negotiable to maintain elasticity and shine.

• The "Second Day" Refresh: Perms and textured mullets often look better on the second day. Refresh curls with a mist of water and a little bit of sea salt spray to reactivate the product already in the hair.

FAQ: 1980s Perms and Mullets

1. Will a modern perm damage my hair as much as 80s perms did?

Modern perming solutions are significantly more advanced and gentler than those used in the 1980s. Many contain conditioning agents and lower ammonia levels. However, any chemical process alters the hair structure, so some dryness is expected. Professional stylists always assess hair health before proceeding and may recommend bond-building treatments to mitigate damage.

2. Can I get a mullet if I have thin hair?

Absolutely. In fact, a mullet is often a great choice for thin hair. The layering on top creates the illusion of volume and height, while the length in the back provides coverage. Adding a texturizing perm or body wave can further enhance the appearance of thickness in fine hair.

3. How long does a perm last?

A permanent wave typically lasts between 3 to 6 months, depending on how fast your hair grows and the tightness of the curl. As the hair grows out, the roots will be straight. Many clients choose to embrace the relaxed root look or get a "root touch-up" perm to maintain the volume.

4. What face shapes suit a mullet best?

The mullet is surprisingly versatile. It works exceptionally well for heart and oval face shapes. For rounder faces, keeping the sideburns slightly longer and the top volume high can elongate the face. A skilled stylist can customize the layers and fringe to balance almost any face shape.

5. What is the difference between a cold perm and a digital perm?

A cold perm (traditional alkaline perm) uses liquid chemicals and plastic rods; it creates curls that are most defined when the hair is wet. This is closer to the classic 80s perm. A digital perm (hot perm) uses heat-regulated rods; it creates softer, larger waves that are more prominent when the hair is dry. Digital perms are often preferred for modern, loose adaptations of retro styles.

6. How do I grow out a mullet if I change my mind?

Growing out a mullet requires patience. The goal is to let the top and sides catch up to the back. Regular trims are essential to keep the back length in check while the front grows. Transitioning into a shag or a bob is a common pathway out of a mullet style.

Conclusion: The Timeless Appeal of Bold Hair

The return of 1980s perms and mullets is more than just a fleeting trend; it is a celebration of texture, volume, and individuality. These styles, once ridiculed, have been reclaimed and reimagined for a modern era that values self-expression. The 1980s taught us that hair is an accessory that can be molded, shaped, and amplified to reflect our personalities.

Whether you opt for a subtle, shag-inspired mullet or a full-volume spiral perm, embracing these retro aesthetics connects you to a lineage of bold fashion history. The key to pulling off these looks today lies in professional execution and proper hair health. By consulting with experienced stylists who understand the architecture of these cuts and the chemistry of these textures, you can achieve a look that is both nostalgic and refreshingly current. So, turn up the volume, embrace the curl, and let your hair make the statement.