80s Hair Trends We Miss (and Don't): A Retro Revival Guide | Volume, Perms & Mullets
80s Hair Trends We Miss (and Don't): A Retro Revival Guide
If there is one decade that defined the concept of "excess," it was undoubtedly the 1980s. It was an era characterized by bold fashion, synthesizer pop, neon colors, and, most importantly, hair that defied the laws of physics. The mantra was simple: bigger is better. From the boardrooms to the rock concerts, volume was the currency of cool. But as we look back from the vantage point of 2026, the legacy of 80s hair trends is a complex mix of nostalgia, admiration, and occasional horror.
Fashion and beauty are cyclical, and we are currently witnessing a massive resurgence of retro aesthetics. However, the modern interpretation of these styles often comes with a refined twist. We aren't just copying the past; we are elevating it. Professional stylists today are seeing an influx of requests for shags, mullets, and voluminous curls that pay homage to the 80s while utilizing modern techniques and bond-building products to maintain hair health.
In this comprehensive guide, we will dissect the 80s hair trends we actually miss—and possess the technology to execute better today—alongside the styles that are better left in the history books. Whether you are looking to embrace the "Wolf Cut" or simply want to understand the history of the perm, read on for a deep dive into the decade of hairspray.
The Comeback Kids: 80s Trends We Miss (and Are Wearing Again)
Not every trend from the 80s was a disaster. In fact, many of the foundational cuts and textures from that era were revolutionary. They broke away from the sleek, straight styles of the 70s and introduced texture and movement. Here are the trends that have made a triumphant return to professional salons.
1. The Modern Perm: From Poodle to Beach Wave
When you hear the word "perm," you might immediately picture a tight, frizzy, chemical-scented disaster that looks more like a poodle than a person. However, the permanent wave was the cornerstone of 80s texture. It allowed people with pin-straight hair to achieve the volume that was so culturally mandatory at the time.
Why We Missed It: We missed the effortless volume and the "wake up and go" texture. The idea of having permanent structure in the hair is incredibly appealing for those who spend hours with a curling iron every morning.
The Modern Update: Today's perms are miles apart from their 80s ancestors. Modern hair salons use gentler solutions that are often ammonia-free. The wrapping techniques have also evolved. Instead of tiny plastic rods used to create tight ringlets, stylists now use large flexi-rods or rollers to create "Body Waves" or the popular "Digital Perm." This results in soft, beachy waves rather than crisp coils. The focus is on movement and root lift, providing a foundation for styling rather than a rigid final look.
2. The Mullet and Its Cousin, The Wolf Cut
Perhaps the most controversial haircut in history, the mullet—"business in the front, party in the back"—was the unisex anthem of the 80s. Worn by rock stars, actors, and athletes, it was a symbol of rebellion. For a long time, the mullet was the punchline of hair jokes, but in recent years, it has become the epitome of edgy chic.
Why We Missed It: We missed the attitude. The mullet is a statement cut. It frames the face while maintaining length, allowing for versatility that a standard bob or long layers cannot offer. It is gender-neutral and fiercely individualistic.
The Modern Update: Enter the "Wolf Cut" and the "Modern Shag." These are the sophisticated 2026 descendants of the 80s mullet. The transition between the short layers in the front and the length in the back is much more seamless and blended. Heavy choppiness is replaced with soft, feathered layers that hug the cheekbones and jawline. When cut by an experienced stylist, this look works on almost every hair texture, from straight to coily, and requires surprisingly little maintenance.
3. Crimping (Used Strategically)
Crimping was everywhere in the 80s. Irons with zigzag plates were used to stamp texture into the hair, creating a geometric, frizzy look that expanded the hair's width significantly. It was fun, youthful, and incredibly distinct.
Why We Missed It: We missed the instant texture. Crimping provides a specific type of grit and volume that backcombing simply cannot replicate. It creates a visual interest that catches the light in unique ways.
The Modern Update: Rarely do we see a full head of crimped hair today. Instead, professional stylists use micro-crimpers as a secret weapon for volume. By crimping the bottom layers of the hair near the root (hidden by the top layers), stylists can create massive, long-lasting volume without the damage of teasing. It is also used in avant-garde editorial styling to create accents within ponytails or updos, adding a touch of retro flair without overwhelming the look.
4. The High Side Pony and Scrunchies
Defined by the aerobics craze and pop idols, the high side ponytail secured with a massive fabric scrunchie was the ultimate casual 80s look. It was sporty, playful, and protected the hair from breakage better than standard elastic bands.
Why We Missed It: We missed the comfort and the accessories. The scrunchie is actually one of the healthiest accessories for hair, as the fabric layer prevents the elastic from snagging or snapping the hair shaft.
The Modern Update: Scrunchies are back in full force, but the materials have upgraded to silk, velvet, and leather. The high pony is now worn sleek and polished, often wrapped with a strand of hair to hide the band for evening looks, or with a statement scrunchie for a casual brunch. The placement has moved slightly more toward the center-back or just slightly off-center, avoiding the extreme ear-level side pony of the past.
The "Oh No" List: 80s Trends We DO NOT Miss
While we look at the past with rose-colored glasses, some things must remain in the 80s. These trends were often damaging to hair health or simply aesthetically questionable by today's standards.
1. The "Mall Bangs" (a.k.a. The Claw)
Mall bangs were defy-gravity fringes that were teased, curled, and sprayed into a crispy, vertical wave that stood several inches off the forehead. They were often separated from the rest of the hair, looking like a separate entity entirely.
Why We Don't Miss It: The amount of hairspray required to maintain this structural integrity was suffocating. The texture was crunchy and flammable. Furthermore, the teasing (backcombing) required to get the bangs to stand up caused significant breakage and thinning at the hairline. Today, we prefer "Curtain Bangs" or "Wispy Bangs" that frame the face softly and move naturally.
2. The Rat Tail
This style involved a relatively short haircut all over, with a single, long lock of hair left growing at the nape of the neck. It was often braided or dyed a different color.
Why We Don't Miss It: Aesthetically, the rat tail disrupted the lines of a haircut without adding any benefit. It often looked accidental or unkempt. While individual expression is paramount in hair styling, the rat tail is one trend that professional stylists universally agree has no place in modern fashion. It lacks the flow of a mullet and the intentionality of an asymmetrical cut.
3. Extreme Bleaching with No Bond Builders
The 80s loved blonde—platinum, white, blinding blonde. Think of the rock bands and pop icons. However, the technology to protect hair during decolorization did not exist back then.
Why We Don't Miss It: The texture of 80s bleached hair was often described as "cotton candy" or "straw." The chemical damage was severe, leading to breakage and hair that could not hold a style without massive amounts of product. Today, we have bond-building technology (like Olaplex or K18) that allows salons to achieve platinum levels while keeping the integrity of the hair bonds intact. We do not miss the chemical haircuts of the past!
The Chemistry of Volume: Then vs. Now
To understand why 80s hair looked the way it did, you have to look at the products. The 80s relied on polymers that coated the hair in a hard shell. Hairsprays like Aqua Net were staples because they froze the hair in place. Mousse was alcohol-heavy, drying out the strands to make them lighter and fluffier.
The Modern Approach to Volume: In 2026, we achieve volume through:- Volumizing Powders: These add grip at the root without sticky residue.
- Dry Texturizing Sprays: These use zeolite or starch to separate strands, creating airiness.
- Root Lifting Foams: Modern mousses are moisturizing and alcohol-free, providing hold without the crunch.
We have learned that healthy hair holds style better than damaged hair. The 80s approach was to damage the cuticle to create friction (volume); the modern approach is to plump the strand from the inside out.
Tips for Rocking Retro Styles in 2026
If you are feeling inspired to try a retro look, here are some tips to ensure you look modern and chic, rather than like you are wearing a Halloween costume.
- Focus on Condition: The biggest difference between 80s hair and modern hair is shine. 80s hair was often matte and dry. Keep your retro cut glossy with hair oils and regular deep conditioning treatments.
- Softness is Key: Even if you get a perm or a mullet, ask your stylist for soft edges. Avoid harsh lines or geometric blocks unless you are going for a very specific avant-garde look.
- Modern Color: Pair a retro cut (like a shag) with a modern color technique (like Balayage or Teasylights). This juxtaposition grounds the look in the present day.
- Less Product is More: You don't need half a can of hairspray. Use products that allow the hair to move. The "helmet hair" look is the quickest way to age yourself.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: Will a modern perm damage my hair like they did in the 80s? A: Generally, no. Modern perming solutions are much gentler and often formulated with conditioning agents. However, any chemical process alters the hair structure. It is vital to have a consultation with a professional stylist to assess your hair's health before proceeding, especially if you have highlighted hair.
Q: Can I get a Wolf Cut if I have thin hair? A: Absolutely. The Wolf Cut is actually excellent for thin hair because the layers create the illusion of volume and movement. A stylist can texturize the hair to bulk it up rather than thinning it out.
Q: How do I get 80s volume without teasing? A: Use a volumizing root spray on damp hair and blow-dry with a round brush, lifting the hair upwards from the scalp. Finish with a puff of volumizing powder at the roots. This gives lift without the mechanical damage of backcombing.
Q: Are banana clips back in style? A: Surprisingly, yes! They have been redesigned to be more discreet and secure. They are a great way to create a "fanned out" ponytail effect that creates the illusion of longer, thicker hair.
Q: What is the difference between a Shag and a Mullet? A: A mullet has a distinct disconnection between the short front/sides and the long back. A shag is a more connected, heavily layered cut where the lengths blend into one another more gradually. Both are very popular right now.
Conclusion
The 1980s were a time of experimentation and fearlessness in beauty. While we may cringe at the photos of our parents (or ourselves) sporting crispy mall bangs and rat tails, we have to admire the confidence it took to wear those styles. The current revival of 80s trends proves that hair fashion is a continuum.
By taking the best elements of the era—the volume, the texture, and the bold silhouettes—and applying modern cutting techniques and healthy hair science, we can enjoy the best of both worlds. Whether you are ready to commit to a digital perm or just want to swap your elastic for a silk scrunchie, there is a little bit of the 80s waiting for everyone. Just remember: keep the volume, ditch the damage.


