The Ultimate Guide to Setting Clips: Secrets for Long-Lasting Curls | Professional Styling Tools

In the world of professional hairstyling, there are flashy tools that get all the attention—the high-tech blow dryers, the titanium flat irons, and the automatic curling wands. However, if you look inside the kit of any high-end editorial stylist or backstage hairdresser, you will find a humble, unassuming tool that is responsible for the most glamorous, long-lasting looks: the setting clip. Often overlooked by home stylists, setting clips are the unsung heroes of hair structure, volume, and longevity.

Achieving the perfect curl is only half the battle; keeping it there is the real challenge. We have all experienced the frustration of spending an hour curling hair, only to have the bounce drop out before arriving at the event. This is where setting clips come into play. By understanding the mechanics of how hair sets and utilizing these precise tools, anyone can elevate a standard hairstyle into a professional-grade masterpiece that withstands gravity and humidity. This comprehensive guide will explore everything there is to know about setting clips, from their history and varieties to advanced techniques for modern and vintage styling.

The Science of the Set: Why You Need Setting Clips

To understand why setting clips are essential, one must first understand the science of hair structure. Hair contains hydrogen bonds, which are physical side bonds that are easily broken by water or heat and reformed as the hair dries or cools. When you wrap hair around a curling iron or a hot roller, the heat breaks these hydrogen bonds, allowing the hair to take on the shape of the tool. However, the curl is not permanent at this stage. As long as the hair remains hot, the bonds are in a fluid state.

If you release a curl while it is still hot and let gravity pull it down, the bonds will reform in that stretched-out, straighter position. This is the primary reason curls fall flat shortly after styling. Setting clips solve this problem by holding the hair in its curled shape while it cools down. By pinning the curl against the scalp, the hair is allowed to return to room temperature in the desired formation, locking the hydrogen bonds in place. This process, known as "setting," creates a memory in the hair fiber that is significantly more resilient than a curl that was simply heated and released.

Furthermore, setting clips allow for volume control. By securing the curl at the base (the root), you can manipulate the direction and lift of the hair. A curl pinned on-base (directly perpendicular to the scalp) will yield maximum volume, while a curl pinned off-base will result in a flatter, more relaxed wave. This level of precision is impossible to achieve with a curling iron alone.

Types of Setting Clips and Their Uses

Not all clips are created equal. While they may look similar to the untrained eye, professional setting clips come in various shapes, sizes, and materials, each designed for a specific function. Choosing the right clip is crucial for avoiding creases and achieving the desired style.

Single Prong Clips

Single prong clips are the most traditional form of setting clip. They consist of a single metal arm on top and bottom, usually made of aluminum or stainless steel. These are incredibly lightweight and are favored for very fine hair or tight, intricate pin curls. Because they are so light, they are less likely to weigh down a delicate curl or leave a heavy indentation. However, they can be a bit slippery to handle and may not hold thick sections of hair securely.

Double Prong Clips

Double prong clips are the industry standard for most setting needs. As the name suggests, the top arm has two prongs while the bottom has one or two, creating a stronger grip on the hair section. The double prong design provides stability, preventing the clip from twisting or sliding out of the curl. These are excellent for barrel curls, roller setting reinforcement, and securing medium-to-thick densities of hair. The metal construction also helps conduct heat if you are using a hood dryer, aiding in the setting process.

Duckbill Clips

Duckbill clips are longer and have a solid, curved upper jaw that resembles a duck's bill. These are typically used for sectioning hair rather than setting individual curls, though they are excellent for holding larger finger waves or securing a finished style while makeup is being applied. Their length allows them to hold more hair, making them ideal for keeping face-framing layers out of the way without disturbing the texture.

Wave Clamps (The "Marcel" Clip)

These are specialized, wide metal clamps specifically designed to create deep ridges for vintage finger waves or Hollywood waves. Unlike prong clips which go inside or across a curl, wave clamps are placed over the ridge of a wave to flatten the hair against the head and accentuate the crest of the wave. They are essential for 1920s and 1930s inspired looks.

Step-by-Step Guide to Using Setting Clips

Mastering the manipulation of setting clips requires dexterity and practice. The goal is to secure the hair without crushing the cylindrical shape of the curl. Here is a professional protocol for a full-head set.

Step 1: Preparation and Heating

Begin with clean, dry hair. Apply a thermal protectant and a setting spray or light-hold mousse. The styling product provides the "grip" needed for the clips to hold and helps the hair memorize the shape. Section the hair logically, starting from the nape of the neck and working upward. Using a curling iron or wand, curl a section of hair. It is vital to heat the hair thoroughly—ensure the heat penetrates the section, but do not burn it.

Step 2: Cupping and Rolling

Once the section is heated, release the hair from the iron into your palm. Do not let it drop! Catch the hot curl in your hand, keeping it in its coiled shape. This is the "cupping" technique. Using your fingers, roll the curl back up towards the scalp, mimicking the shape it had on the iron. Ensure the ends of the hair are tucked neatly inside the coil; otherwise, you will end up with "fish hooks" (bent, straight ends).

Step 3: Pinning the Curl

The placement of the clip determines the final result. For maximum volume, place the curled loop directly on top of its base section. Open the setting clip and slide it through the center of the curl, anchoring the bottom prong against the scalp hair near the root. The clip should be parallel to the parting to minimize visible marks. For double prong clips, ensure the prongs slide through the loop, not over it, to avoid crushing the hair's roundness.

Step 4: The Cool Down

This is the most critical step. Leave the clips in until the hair is completely cool to the touch. If you are in a salon setting or have time, sitting under a hood dryer on a cool setting can lock the style in even tighter. A good rule of thumb is to leave the clips in for at least 20 minutes. Many stylists recommend doing the hair set first, then proceeding with makeup application while the hair cools.

Step 5: Removal and Styling

Remove the clips gently. Do not yank them, as this can frizz the hair and disturb the curl pattern. Open the clip wide and slide it out the same way it went in. Once all clips are removed, you will have tight, springy curls. Do not panic—this is not the final look. Tilt the head back and rake through the curls with a wide-tooth comb or a boar bristle brush to merge the curls into soft waves or a voluminous blowout finish.

Advanced Techniques: Hollywood Waves and Vintage Styles

Setting clips are the primary tool used to achieve the coveted "Hollywood Wave" seen on red carpets. This style relies on a uniform curl pattern where every section of hair is curled in the exact same direction and set precisely.

To achieve this, the hair is curled horizontally and pinned in a "bricklay" pattern to avoid separation lines between sections. Once the clips are removed and the hair is brushed out, the curls align into a single, cohesive wave pattern. Stylists will often use setting clips after the brush-out as well. They will push the hair into the desired wave shape and place clips at the "troughs" (the indented parts) of the wave to emphasize the S-pattern. A strong-hold hairspray is applied, and the clips are left in for a few minutes to sharpen the ridges of the wave. This technique creates that ultra-polished, glass-hair finish associated with old-school glamour.

Preventing the Dreaded "Clip Mark"

One of the most common fears regarding setting clips is the potential for creases or dents in the hair. A visible line where the metal pressed too hard can ruin a smooth style. Fortunately, this is entirely preventable with the right technique and tools.

The Tissue Paper Trick

For hair that is incredibly prone to marking (like fine, blonde, or chemically straightened hair), stylists use playing cards or folded tissue paper. Place a small square of tissue or a piece of cardstock between the clip and the hair. This buffers the pressure of the metal prong, distributing it over a wider area and preventing a sharp indentation. This is a standard practice backstage at fashion weeks.

Correct Clip Tension

Ensure your clips are not too tight. If the spring is incredibly strong, it may be better suited for thick, coarse hair. For fine hair, use clips with a gentler tension. Additionally, avoid clipping "across" the face of a visible wave if possible; try to clip underneath the bulk of the curl where a mark won't be seen.

Material Selection

While metal clips are great for heat conduction, plastic setting clips are available. Plastic clips are generally lighter and have softer edges than stamped metal, reducing the risk of crimping the hair shaft. However, plastic does not hold heat, so the cooling process might take slightly longer.

Maintenance and Hygiene of Setting Clips

Like any beauty tool, setting clips require maintenance. In a professional environment, hygiene is non-negotiable. Metal clips can accumulate hairspray, mousse, and natural oils, which can make them sticky and difficult to open. This residue can also transfer to clean hair, making it look greasy.

To clean metal setting clips, soak them in a mixture of warm water and clarifying shampoo or a dedicated salon tool cleaner. Use a small brush to scrub the spring mechanism and the inside of the prongs. Rinse them thoroughly and—crucially—dry them immediately and completely. Most setting clips are made of aluminum or stainless steel, but moisture left in the spring mechanism can lead to rust over time, which will ruin the clip and stain light-colored hair. Store them in a dry container or a magnetic wristband for easy access.

Why Professionals Prefer Clips Over Velcro Rollers

While Velcro rollers are popular for volume, setting clips offer distinct advantages. Velcro rollers can be abrasive; the tiny hooks that grip the hair can cause friction and frizz, especially on fragile or textured hair. When removing a Velcro roller, it often pulls at the hair, disrupting the smooth cuticle.

Setting clips, by contrast, are non-abrasive. They hold the curl without friction. This results in a glassier, shinier finish because the hair cuticle remains flat and undisturbed. For styles requiring high shine and smoothness, the pin curl method with setting clips is superior to the Velcro roller method.

Tips for the Perfect Set

• Don't Overload the Clip: If you try to stuff too much hair into one clip, it will pop off or slide down, dragging the curl with it. Match the section size to the clip size.

• Angle Matters: For maximum root lift, clip the curl "on base" (directly on top of the section). For a more relaxed, vintage look, clip it "off base" (dragged slightly down or to the side).

• Cool Air Blast: If you are in a rush, use the "cool shot" button on your blow dryer to blast the pinned curls before removing them. This accelerates the bond-setting process.

• Magnetic Storage: Use a magnetic pincushion or wristband. This saves immense amounts of time when you are working quickly around a client's head.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q1: Can I use setting clips on wet hair? Yes, this is the traditional method for a "wet set." You can pin curl wet hair using setting spray and let it air dry or dry under a hood. However, the hair must be 100% dry before removing the clips, or the curls will frizz and drop immediately.

Q2: How do I stop the clips from getting stuck in my hair? Clips usually get stuck because hair has wrapped around the spring or the hinge. When removing, ensure you open the clip fully before pulling it away. Always pull the clip out in the opposite direction of insertion.

Q3: Are plastic or metal clips better? Metal clips are generally preferred for heat styling because they conduct heat, helping the curl set faster. Plastic clips are better for chemical processes (like perms or coloring) where metal might react with the chemicals, or for very fragile hair that creases easily.

Q4: How many clips do I need for a full head? For a standard density head of hair, you will typically need between 20 to 30 clips. If you have very thick hair or are creating small, tight curls, you may need upwards of 50.

Q5: Can setting clips be used on hair extensions? Absolutely. Setting clips are excellent for blending natural hair with extensions. By curling and pinning the natural hair and the extension hair together, you encourage them to cool in the same pattern, creating a seamless flow.

Q6: Why do my curls still drop even after using clips? If curls still drop, the issue might be insufficient heat during the initial curl, taking the clips out before the hair was completely cool, or using hair products that are too heavy (oils) or too light (no hold). Ensure the hair is bone dry and cool before releasing.

Conclusion

Setting clips may seem like a relic of the golden age of cinema, but they remain one of the most effective tools in modern hairstyling. They bridge the gap between a temporary curl and a style that endures the rigors of a wedding, a photoshoot, or a long workday. By respecting the science of heating and cooling, and mastering the dexterity required to pin a perfect curl, you can achieve levels of volume and definition that heat tools alone simply cannot provide. Whether you are a professional stylist looking to refine your finishing techniques or an enthusiast aiming for that salon-quality blowout at home, the setting clip is an indispensable ally in the pursuit of perfect hair.