Elizabethan Hair: A Journey Through the Golden Age of Coiffure

When we think of the Elizabethan era, images of immense ruffs, heavy velvet gowns, and, most importantly, elaborate, gravity-defying hairstyles immediately come to mind. The reign of Queen Elizabeth I (1558–1603) was not only a golden age for drama and exploration but also a revolutionary period for personal grooming and fashion. Hair was far more than a mere aesthetic choice during the 16th century; it was a potent symbol of wealth, social standing, and political allegiance. The complexities of Elizabethan hair styling required a level of architectural engineering and chemical experimentation that rivals even the most avant-garde techniques used in professional salons today.

For modern stylists and history enthusiasts alike, understanding the trends of this era offers a fascinating glimpse into the evolution of beauty standards. While today we prioritize hair health and bond-building treatments, the Elizabethans prioritized height, color, and structure, often at the expense of their physical well-being. This era marked a departure from the modest, covered heads of the Medieval period, transitioning into an age where hair was displayed as a crowning glory, quite literally adorned with jewels, pearls, and precious metals.

In this comprehensive guide, we will delve deep into the secrets of the Elizabethan vanity. We will explore how the Virgin Queen influenced an entire nation's hair color, the dangerous dyes used to achieve the perfect shade of red, the structural underpinnings of those massive updos, and how these historic styles continue to influence high fashion and editorial styling in the 21st century.

The Queen's Influence: The Cult of Red Hair

It is impossible to discuss Elizabethan hair without discussing the woman who gave the era its name. Queen Elizabeth I was the ultimate influencer of her time. Her natural hair color was a reddish-gold, a trait inherited from her father, Henry VIII. In a time when the monarch was seen as the divinely appointed ruler, emulating the Queen's appearance was not just a fashion statement; it was an act of loyalty. Consequently, red and strawberry blonde became the most sought-after hair colors in England. Women of the court and the rising middle class went to great lengths to mimic this shade, transforming red hair from a trait previously associated with Judas or distrust into the pinnacle of beauty.

As the Queen aged, her natural hair thinned and lost its pigment. To maintain her image of eternal youth and power—the "Fair Virgin"—she relied heavily on wigs. It is rumored that by the end of her reign, she possessed over eighty wigs of various shades of red and orange. These wigs were not merely coverings; they were elaborate construction pieces curled tightly and decorated with jewels. This normalized the use of false hair, or "periwigs," allowing women to change their style and color instantly without waiting for natural growth or risking damage from harsh dyes—though many still took the risk.

The obsession with the Queen's image extended beyond color. Elizabeth had naturally curly hair, and as such, texture became a requirement for fashionable ladies. Straight hair was considered plain and unrefined. Women used early versions of curling irons—tongs heated in fires—to achieve tight, frizzy curls that framed the face. This texture was essential for creating the volume required for the era's styles, acting as a base that could be molded and pinned into the heart-shaped silhouettes that defined the latter half of the 16th century.

The Architecture of the Coiffure: Wire, Pads, and Rats

Achieving the height and volume associated with high-status Elizabethan hair required more than just hairspray and teasing. It was an architectural endeavor. The desired silhouette shifted throughout the era, but the most iconic look involved hair that was swept up and away from the forehead, puffed out at the sides, and secured in a bun or intricate braids at the back. To support this volume, women used a variety of structural aids. Wire frames, known as "palisades," were often used to hold the hair in a specific shape, particularly the heart-shaped halos that framed the face.

Underneath the visible hair lay a hidden world of padding. Women used "rats"—pads made of horsehair, wool, or even their own shed hair collected from brushes over time—to bulk up their styles. These pads were pinned to the head, and the natural hair (or a wig) was smoothed over them. This technique is remarkably similar to the use of hair donuts or extensions in modern bridal styling, proving that the quest for volume is timeless. The use of these pads allowed for styles that were wider than the shoulders, balancing out the immense width of the farthingale skirts worn during the period.

Because these styles were so labor-intensive to construct, they were not taken down daily. A noblewoman might keep her hair styled for days or even weeks, merely touching up the front curls and smoothing flyaways with pomades. This practice, however, led to significant hygiene issues. The warm, dark, and undisturbed environment inside the massive hairstyles became a breeding ground for lice and other pests. To combat this, intricate ivory or bone scratching sticks were used to relieve itches without disturbing the structure of the hair—a practical, if slightly unsettling, solution to a beauty problem.

The Chemistry of Beauty: Dangerous Dyes and Bleaches

While modern salons use scientifically formulated, ammonia-free dyes, Elizabethan women played a dangerous game with chemistry to achieve their desired colors. Since red and golden-red were the ideals, those born with dark hair resorted to harsh bleaching methods. The most common bleaching agent was urine, which contains ammonia. Women would wash their hair in fermented urine and then sit in the sun for hours, hoping the combination of ammonia and UV rays would lift their natural dark pigment.

For those seeking the coveted red hue, recipes were even more experimental and often toxic. Mixtures included saffron, cumin, celandine, and oil, which were relatively harmless but expensive. However, to set the color or achieve brighter tones, lead, sulfur, and quicklime were often introduced. These substances were caustic and poisonous. Prolonged use could lead to hair loss, skin burns, and systemic poisoning. The price of beauty in the 16th century was often one's health.

Another popular treatment was the use of lye (made from wood ash) to clean and lighten hair. While effective at stripping color, lye is extremely drying and damaging to the hair cuticle. To counteract the straw-like texture that resulted from these treatments, women applied heavy pomades made from animal fats (like lard or bear grease) mixed with perfumes to mask the smell. While these fats provided moisture, they also attracted dirt and vermin, creating a vicious cycle of bleaching, damaging, and greasing that wreaked havoc on the scalp's health.

The High Forehead: A Sign of Aristocracy

One of the most distinct features of Elizabethan beauty standards was the high forehead. A high, expansive forehead was considered a sign of high intelligence, breeding, and aristocracy. To accentuate this feature, women—and the Queen herself—would pluck their hairlines back by an inch or more. This practice, strictly followed by the upper classes, created a severe, exposed look that elongated the face.

The eyebrows were not spared either. They were plucked until they were barely visible, further emphasizing the height of the forehead. This created a blank canvas for the pale skin that was so fashionable. The skin was whitened using "Venetian Ceruse," a mixture of white lead and vinegar. The combination of the receding hairline and the stark white face created the mask-like appearance seen in many portraits of the era.

It is interesting to note the contrast with modern hair contouring. Today, stylists often cut bangs or face-framing layers to shrink a large forehead or soften facial features. In the Elizabethan era, the goal was the exact opposite: to expose and harden the features, presenting a visage that commanded respect and demonstrated a removal from the labor-intensive life of the lower classes, who did not have the time or inclination to pluck their hairlines.

Accessories and Adornments: Beyond the Hair

Elizabethan hair was rarely left unadorned. Once the structure was created and the color perfected, the hair became a display case for wealth. Pearls were the most popular accessory, symbolizing purity and favored heavily by the Virgin Queen. Strands of pearls were woven into the hair, draped across the forehead, or sewn into the wigs. In addition to pearls, precious stones, gold thread, and ribbons were used to catch the light.

Headwear was also an integral part of the hairstyle. The French hood, popularized earlier by Anne Boleyn, evolved during Elizabeth's reign. It sat far back on the head, exposing the front hair and the plucked forehead, while a veil covered the back. The "attifet" was another heart-shaped headdress that dipped in the center of the forehead, mirroring the hairline.

For the lower classes who could not afford pearls or silk ribbons, flowers and simple linen coifs were used. However, even the middle class attempted to emulate the aristocracy by using glass beads or cheaper fabrics to decorate their hair. The snood, or "caul," was a net often made of gold or silver thread, lined with silk, used to contain the bun at the back of the head. This served a functional purpose by keeping heavy hair secured while adding a decorative element that could be encrusted with jewels.

Men's Hairstyles: Beards and Love-Locks

While women’s hair was complex, men’s hair in the Elizabethan era was equally governed by fashion trends. The clean-shaven look of the early Tudor period gave way to a variety of beard styles. A man's beard was a sign of his masculinity and status. Styles ranged from the "spade" beard (broad and square) to the "stiletto" (pointed). Beards were starched, oiled, and sometimes even dyed to match the hair or in contrasting colors.

Men's hair length varied, but it generally became longer as the era progressed. The "love-lock" was a particularly romantic and somewhat controversial trend. This involved growing one section of hair longer than the rest, usually over the left shoulder (the side of the heart), sometimes braided or tied with a ribbon given by a lover. This asymmetry was a bold fashion statement.

Maintenance for men was also rigorous. Barber-surgeons were essential members of the community, responsible for cutting hair, trimming beards, and pulling teeth. Men used waxes to shape their mustaches and perfumes to scent their beards. The texture was important for men too; curling irons were used to curl the hair and beard, as a flourishing, bushy appearance was preferred over sleek, flat styles.

Modern Interpretations: Bringing History to the Salon

While we no longer pluck our hairlines or use lead dyes, the influence of Elizabethan hair can still be seen in modern avant-garde styling and runway fashion. The concept of using padding to create volume is a staple in bridal and editorial work. The "messy bun" or textured updo owes a debt to the frizz and volume prized in the 16th century, albeit achieved now with texturizing sprays rather than hot tongs and lack of washing.

For costume parties, theater productions, or themed events, recreating the Elizabethan look is a popular request. Modern professional salons can achieve these looks safely. A crimping iron or a small-barrel curling wand can replicate the frizzy texture. Instead of wire frames, strong-hold hairsprays and lightweight foam fillers can create the heart-shaped silhouette without the weight.

Furthermore, the bold red colors of the era are currently experiencing a renaissance. Copper, strawberry blonde, and deep auburn shades are trending. Modern colorists can achieve these vibrant hues using nourishing, oil-based color systems that improve hair health rather than destroying it. The Elizabethan spirit of using hair as a form of bold self-expression remains very much alive, proving that while techniques change, the desire to make a statement through hair is eternal.

Tips for Achieving an Elizabethan-Inspired Look (Safely)

If you are looking to channel your inner Queen Elizabeth for an event or a modern editorial style, here are some professional tips to get the look without the 16th-century damage:

• Texture is Key: Use a micro-crimper or braid damp hair into many small, tight braids and let it dry. Brush this out to create the massive, fluffy volume characteristic of the era.

• Use Padding: Don't rely on backcombing alone, which can break the hair. Use synthetic hair pads or "donuts" to create the foundation for your updo.

• Accessorize: The look isn't complete without adornment. woven ribbons, pearl headbands, or even delicate chains can be pinned into the style to mimic the wealth of the Tudor court.

• Protect Your Hair: If using heat tools to create tight curls, always use a high-quality heat protectant spray. The Elizabethans didn't have this luxury, but you do.

• Temporary Color: If you want the iconic red shade but aren't ready for a permanent commitment, ask your stylist about color-depositing masks or glazes that wash out over time.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. Did Queen Elizabeth I really wear wigs? Yes, especially later in life. As she aged and her natural hair thinned and lost color, she wore elaborate wigs to maintain her appearance of youth and authority. It is said she owned over 80 wigs.

2. How did they clean their hair in the Elizabethan era? Hair was not washed with water and shampoo as we do today. It was cleaned by brushing it vigorously to remove dust and distributing natural oils. Occasionally, lye or herbal mixtures were used, but full washing was rare due to the difficulty of drying thick hair in cold, drafty houses.

3. Why did they pluck their foreheads? A high forehead was considered a sign of beauty, aristocracy, and intellect. Women plucked their hairlines to exaggerate this feature and allow more space for their pale, makeup-covered skin to be displayed.

4. Were the hair dyes really poisonous? Many were. While some used plant-based dyes like henna or saffron, those seeking permanent or lighter colors often used mixtures containing lead, sulfur, and quicklime, which caused severe health issues and hair loss over time.

5. What is a "rat" in hair styling? A "rat" was a pad used to add volume to a hairstyle. In the Elizabethan era, these were often made of hair collected from brushes, shaped into a sausage-like roll, and used to prop up the hair. The term is still sometimes used in hairdressing today.

6. Did men dye their beards? Yes. Men's grooming was very important, and many men dyed their beards to match their hair or to follow the trend of reddish-gold beards popularized by the court.

Conclusion

The Elizabethan era was a time of contradictions: extreme beauty and extreme danger, immense wealth and poor hygiene, rigid structures and wild textures. The hairstyles of this period were not just fashion statements; they were declarations of power, loyalty, and social standing. From the towering, pearl-encrusted wigs of the Queen to the carefully groomed beards of the courtiers, hair played a pivotal role in the theater of daily life.

Looking back at Elizabethan hair history allows us to appreciate how far hair care technology has come. We can now achieve the fiery reds and gravity-defying volumes that Elizabethans craved, but without the risk of lead poisoning or hair loss. It serves as a reminder that while the definition of beauty evolves, the human desire to decorate, style, and transform ourselves through our hair is a constant throughout history. Whether you are a history buff or a lover of avant-garde styling, the Golden Age offers endless inspiration for creativity and grandeur.