Georgian Wigs: The Ultimate Guide to 18th Century Hair History & Style

When we think of the Georgian era, images of grand ballrooms, intricate silk gowns, and, most notably, towering, powdered hairstyles immediately come to mind. Georgian wigs are perhaps the most defining visual characteristic of the 18th century. From the early 1700s through the Regency transition, hair was not merely a cosmetic feature; it was a potent symbol of status, wealth, political affiliation, and fashion consciousness. Today, the fascination with Georgian wigs has been reignited by popular period dramas and a renewed interest in historical costuming.

This comprehensive guide explores the fascinating world of Georgian wigs, delving deep into their construction, the societal rules that governed them, the elaborate styles that defined the era, and how they continue to influence modern theatrical hair artistry. Whether you are a history buff, a stylist looking for inspiration, or a costume enthusiast preparing for a masquerade, understanding the intricate history of the Georgian wig offers a window into a time when hair was truly larger than life.

The Rise of the Peruke: Status and Social Signaling

The popularity of wigs in the Georgian era was inherited from the 17th century, popularized by French King Louis XIV and English King Charles II. However, during the Georgian period (1714–1837), the wig—or "peruke"—evolved into an essential component of a gentleman's wardrobe and, eventually, a staple of high-fashion female styling. In the early part of the century, a man’s wig was his crowning glory. It was an immediate indicator of his class. The term "big wig" literally comes from this era, as the nobility and high-ranking officials wore the largest, most elaborate, and most expensive hairpieces.

Wigs were expensive commodities. A full-bottomed wig could cost as much as 25 guineas, a sum that would take an average London tradesman years to earn. Consequently, the wig became a barrier of entry to polite society. To be seen without a wig (or with one's natural hair unstyled in a wig-like manner) was to be seen in a state of undress. For men, the wig was as crucial as breeches or a waistcoat. It signaled that one had the leisure time and financial resources to maintain such an accessory. The social pressure was so intense that even those of modest means attempted to emulate the style, opting for cheaper versions made of horsehair or goat hair rather than the prized human hair used by the aristocracy.

Beyond status, there was a practical, albeit slightly grim, reason for the ubiquity of wigs: hygiene. The 18th century was rife with lice and other scalp conditions. Shaving the head and wearing a wig was a practical solution to avoid infestation. A wig could be sent to a barber to be boiled, baked, and deloused, whereas natural hair required tedious maintenance that was difficult to manage without modern plumbing and shampoos. Thus, the Georgian wig was a marriage of extreme vanity and pragmatic sanitation, creating a unique fashion landscape that lasted for decades.

Anatomy of a Georgian Wig: Materials and Construction

The craftsmanship involved in creating a high-quality Georgian wig was extraordinary. Wig-making was a respected guild trade, and the "perruquier" was a vital figure in any fashionable town. The foundation of the wig was usually a netted cap, painstakingly fitted to the client's shaved head. Into this mesh, thousands of strands of hair were knotted. The most desirable material was human hair, often sourced from peasants in the countryside who would sell their locks for a pittance. Human hair held a curl better than any other material and took to powdering with a superior finish.

However, due to the scarcity and cost of human hair, alternatives were common. Horsehair was a durable and popular substitute, particularly for judges and legal professionals—a tradition that persists in British courts today. Goat hair was also used, as was cotton and silk thread for pure white stage wigs. The hair was cleaned, sorted by length, and then curled. The curling process involved winding the hair around heated clay pipes or wooden dowels and boiling it to set the structure. This ensured the wig maintained its shape even in damp English weather, though frequent trips to the barber for re-styling were mandatory for any gentleman of standing.

To achieve the iconic white or off-white look, wigs were not always made of white hair. Instead, they were heavily powdered. The powder was typically made from finely ground starch (often wheat or potato), scented with lavender, orange flower, or orris root. The application of powder was a messy affair, usually done in a dedicated "powdering room" (the origin of the modern term "powder room"). The wearer would cover their clothes with a cone-shaped cape, and a servant would use bellows to blow the powder onto the greased wig, ensuring an even, matte coating that signified cleanliness and aristocracy.

Evolution of Men’s Styles: From Full-Bottom to the Queue

Men's wig styles underwent drastic changes throughout the Georgian era. In the early 1700s, the Full-Bottomed Wig reigned supreme. These were massive, cascading masses of curls that draped over the shoulders and down the back, often parted in the center with high "horns" or peaks on top. They were heavy, hot, and cumbersome, but they conveyed immense authority. Over time, as the Enlightenment brought about a preference for reason and practicality, wig styles began to recede.

By the mid-century, the Tie-Wig and the Bag-Wig became fashionable. The Tie-Wig pulled the back hair into a ponytail secured with a black silk ribbon. The Bag-Wig, or "crapaud," enclosed the ponytail in a black silk bag (the "bourse"), which prevented the hair powder from ruining the back of the wearer's coat. These styles were more practical for military men and the active gentry. Another popular variation was the Ramillies, named after the Battle of Ramillies, which featured a long braided tail tied with bows at the top and bottom.

Towards the 1770s, a subculture known as the Macaronis emerged. These were young men who had traveled to Italy on the Grand Tour and returned with extravagant tastes. Their wigs were characterized by enormous height—sometimes towering several inches above the forehead—with a very small hat perched precariously on top. The Macaroni style was often ridiculed in the press, but it represented the peak of wig eccentricity before the decline of the trend. By the turn of the 19th century, the "Brutus" style—a messy, unpowdered, Roman-inspired crop—began to take over as the natural hair look returned to vogue.

The Towering Heights of Female Fashion

While men’s wigs were standard daily wear, women’s relationship with wigs was different. For much of the early Georgian era, women wore their natural hair, supplemented with hairpieces. However, in the 1770s and 1780s, influenced by the French court and figures like Marie Antoinette, women’s hairstyles reached literal new heights. These were not always full wigs in the modern sense but were elaborate structures built upon the natural hair using pads, wire frames, false hair, and vast amounts of pomade.

The Pouf was the defining style of this period. To create a pouf, a stylist would use a cushion made of wool or horsehair placed on top of the head. The natural hair, along with false additions, was combed up and over this cushion and cemented in place with a paste made of beef tallow and bear grease. These structures could stand up to three feet high. Because the process was so time-consuming (and expensive), women would often leave these styles in for weeks at a time, leading to the infamous stories of scratching sticks being used to relieve itches caused by pests living inside the coiffure.

What made these styles truly "Georgian" was the ornamentation. It was not enough to have high hair; the hair had to tell a story. Women adorned their towering hairdos with feathers, pearls, fresh flowers (kept alive with small vials of water hidden in the hair), and even model ships, birdcages, or battle scenes to commemorate current events. The sheer weight of these hairstyles caused neck strain, and women had to learn to move their heads with extreme caution. Sleeping required special wooden neck blocks to keep the hair elevated and prevent it from being crushed.

The Decline: The Hair Powder Tax and Revolution

The golden age of the Georgian wig came to a crashing halt due to a combination of political upheaval and economic necessity. The French Revolution (1789) changed the fashion landscape of Europe overnight. The elaborate, powdered styles were associated with the decadent aristocracy that was being overthrown. In France, wearing a powdered wig became a dangerous political statement, and this sentiment rippled across the Channel to England. Simplicity and "democratic" naturalism became the new ideal.

The final nail in the coffin for the powdered wig in Britain was the Duty on Hair Powder Act of 1795. In an effort to raise funds for the wars against France, the British government levied a tax of one guinea per year on anyone who wished to use hair powder. Those who paid were given a certificate. While the wealthy could afford it, the tax caused a mass abandonment of the style among the middle classes and the gentry. The "Guinea Pig" became a satirical term for those who paid the tax. By 1800, powder was largely gone, reserved only for older conservatives, footmen, and the legal profession, paving the way for the Regency era's classical, Greco-Roman natural curls.

Modern Revivals and Theatrical Use

Today, the Georgian wig lives on primarily in the worlds of theater, film, and law. In the United Kingdom and some Commonwealth nations, barristers and judges still wear horsehair wigs as part of their ceremonial dress, a direct lineage from the 18th century. However, the most vibrant modern application is in the entertainment industry. Shows like Bridgerton, The Great, and movies like The Duchess have sparked a renewed interest in these historical aesthetics.

For professional salons and stylists, creating Georgian-inspired looks is a test of architectural skill. Modern "avant-garde" hair competitions often feature structures that mimic the engineering of the 1770s pouf. Stylists use lightweight foam cores and synthetic hair to recreate the volume without the weight or the unhygienic animal fats of the past. The aesthetic of the Georgian wig—pastel colors, excessive volume, and intricate texture—also frequently influences high fashion runways, appearing in collections by designers like Vivienne Westwood and John Galliano.

For costume enthusiasts, the market for Georgian wigs ranges from cheap Halloween synthetics to custom-made lace-front pieces that cost thousands. A high-quality reproduction requires the same ventilation (knotting) techniques used 300 years ago. Whether for a historical reenactment or a themed ball, wearing a Georgian wig instantly transforms the wearer's posture and presence, demanding a certain nobility of movement that modern hairstyles simply do not require.

Tips for Choosing and Wearing a Georgian Style Wig

If you are planning to wear a Georgian wig for a theatrical production, a costume party, or a photoshoot, there are several factors to consider to ensure the look is authentic and the experience is comfortable.

• Mind the Weight: Authentic-looking Georgian wigs, especially the towering female styles, can be top-heavy. Ensure the wig has a secure interior comb system or use wig grips. If commissioning a custom piece, ask for a hollow foam core to reduce neck strain.

• The Hairline Matters: For men's styles, the hairline is crucial. In the 18th century, the wig sat high on the forehead. Avoid pulling it too low, which looks modern and unnatural. Lace-front wigs offer the most realistic transition.

• Matte over Shine: Synthetic wigs often have an unnatural plastic shine. To achieve the Georgian "powdered" look, spray the wig with a dry shampoo or a specialized matte setting spray. You can even lightly dust it with baby powder (talc-free) to mimic the starch of the era.

• Accessorize appropriately: Don't leave the wig plain. Men's wigs should have a black solitaire ribbon at the neck. Women's wigs should be adorned with silk ribbons, pearls, or ostrich feathers. The accessories should complement the height of the hair.

• Posture is Key: You cannot slouch in a Georgian wig. The height of the hair demands an elongated neck and straight spine. Practice walking with the wig on before your event to get used to the altered center of gravity.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

1. Did Georgian wigs smell bad?

Historically, yes, they often did. The use of animal fats (pomade) to set the hair could turn rancid, and because the elaborate women's styles were left in for weeks, they accumulated dirt and sweat. Perfumed powders were used to mask these odors. Modern costume wigs, thankfully, do not suffer from this issue.

2. Why were Georgian wigs white or grey?

While wigs came in natural colors, the white/grey powdered look was the height of fashion because it mimicked age and wisdom, and the powder helped unify the complexion. It also acted as a display of wealth, as maintaining a perfectly white, powdered wig required servants and money.

3. Are Georgian wigs heavy to wear today?

It depends on the construction. A cheap costume wig is light but looks unrealistic. A theatrical quality wig built on a wire frame with dense synthetic or human hair can be quite heavy. Professional stylists today use lightweight styrofoam bases to create volume without the massive weight of the 18th-century wool pads.

4. Did men shave their heads to wear wigs?

Yes, many men shaved their heads or cropped their hair extremely short. This ensured a better fit for the wig and was more hygienic, preventing lice infestations under the warm wig caps. When at home in the evening, they would remove the wig and wear a soft "banyan" cap or turban to keep their shaved heads warm.

5. What is the difference between a Peruke and a regular wig?

"Peruke" is simply the anglicized version of the French "perruque." In the context of the era, it generally referred to the formal, styled wigs worn by men. Today, the terms are used interchangeably when discussing historical hair, though "peruke" specifically evokes the 17th and 18th-century styles.

6. Can I style a modern wig to look Georgian?

Yes. You can achieve a Georgian look by starting with a long, dense blonde or white wig. You will need to engage in heavy backcombing (teasing) to create volume, use rollers for the side curls (buckles), and use strong-hold hairspray. For the iconic "pouf," you may need to insert a foam filler inside the wig structure.

Conclusion

Georgian wigs represent one of the most extravagant chapters in the history of fashion. They were more than just hair; they were architecture, social currency, and political statements. From the imposing full-bottomed perukes of the early 1700s to the gravity-defying poufs of Marie Antoinette's court, these styles reflected a society obsessed with surface, status, and spectacle.

While the hair powder tax and the changing tides of history eventually brought an end to the era of the big wig, their legacy endures. They remind us of the transformative power of hair and the lengths to which humanity will go to adhere to the beauty standards of their time. Whether viewed through the lens of a museum archive or the screen of a modern period drama, the Georgian wig remains an enduring icon of elegance, excess, and artistry.