How to Fake an Updo with Short Hair | The Ultimate Styling Guide
There is a common misconception in the world of beauty that elegant, swept-up hairstyles are the exclusive domain of those with flowing, waist-length tresses. While having long hair certainly provides more material to work with, the idea that you cannot achieve a sophisticated updo with a bob, lob, or even a pixie cut is entirely false. Knowing how to fake an updo with short hair is less about length and more about texture, strategy, and the clever use of accessories. Whether you are attending a formal wedding, a black-tie gala, or simply want to keep your hair off your neck during the summer months, short hair is surprisingly versatile if you have the right toolkit.
Short hair actually possesses distinct advantages when creating updos. It is often lighter, meaning it holds volume better than heavy, long hair that tends to drag styles down. Furthermore, the layers inherent in most short cuts can create beautiful, textured dimension that looks effortless and modern. By utilizing specific pinning techniques, volumizing products, and optical illusions, anyone can transform a chin-length cut into a romantic chignon or a chic French twist.
This comprehensive guide will walk you through the preparation, the tools, and the step-by-step techniques required to master the art of the faux updo. From creating the perfect grit to mastering the "invisible pin," here is everything you need to know to elevate your short hair game.
The Foundation: Preparation and Texture
Before picking up a single bobby pin, it is crucial to understand that clean, slippery hair is the enemy of a short hair updo. When hair is freshly washed and conditioned, it lacks the "grip" necessary to hold pins in place, especially when dealing with shorter layers that are prone to popping out. To successfully fake an updo, the hair needs grit, texture, and volume. This foundation is what allows the style to last for hours rather than falling apart minutes after leaving the mirror.
Creating the Perfect Canvas
Start by assessing the current state of the hair. Ideally, second-day hair is the best starting point. The natural oils produced by the scalp provide a malleability that freshly washed hair simply cannot replicate. If the hair is clean, you must simulate this texture artificially. A high-quality texturizing spray or a dry shampoo is essential. Spray the product generously from roots to ends, focusing on the mid-lengths where the pins will be inserted. This coating increases the diameter of each hair strand, allowing them to interlock with one another more effectively.
For those with particularly fine or straight hair, adding a wave is a non-negotiable step. Using a one-inch curling iron or a flat iron, create loose, messy waves throughout the head. You are not aiming for perfect ringlets; rather, you want to create bends and movement. These bends act as anchors for bobby pins and help to disguise the disconnect between shorter layers and the bulk of the updo. Once curled, allow the hair to cool completely before running fingers through it to break up the pattern. This creates a fluffy, voluminous base that is much easier to manipulate than straight strands.
Technique 1: The Multi-Bun Illusion
One of the most effective ways to fake an updo with short hair is to stop trying to force all the hair into a single bun. Instead, the "Multi-Bun Illusion" breaks the style down into manageable sections. When positioned closely together, multiple small buns look like one large, intricate updo. This technique is particularly effective for chin-length bobs where the hair at the nape of the neck is too short to reach the crown.
Step-by-Step Execution
Begin by sectioning the hair into three or four vertical parts at the back of the head. Secure each section with a small, clear elastic band to create a series of low ponytails. Ideally, these ponytails should be positioned side-by-side at the nape of the neck. If the hair is very short, you can stack them vertically. The elastic bands provide a permanent anchor point that bobby pins can grab onto, which is far more secure than pinning loose hair.
Once the ponytails are secured, tease the tail of each pony to create maximum volume. Take the first ponytail, twist it loosely, and wrap it around its base to form a messy bun. Secure this with U-shaped pins or bobby pins. Repeat this process with the remaining ponytails. The key is to pin the buns so that they touch and overlap slightly. Gently tug at the edges of the buns to fan them out, covering the gaps between them. The result is a seamless, textured look that resembles a complex, professional updo, yet it is held together by the security of individual sections.
Technique 2: The Rolled Gibson Tuck
For a look that screams vintage elegance and works beautifully on bob-length hair, the Rolled Gibson Tuck is a go-to strategy. This style focuses on rolling the hair inward to hide the ends, creating a smooth, continuous line at the nape of the neck. It is sophisticated enough for bridal parties and simple enough for a dinner date.
Mastering the Roll
Start with a deep side part to add drama and volume to the front. Leave the front sections (from the ear forward) loose for later. Focus on the back section first. Gather the top layer of the hair at the crown and tease it gently to create a small bouffant—this prevents the style from looking flat. Next, gather the hair at the nape as if making a low ponytail. Instead of tying it, begin rolling the ends of the hair upward toward the scalp. If the hair is too short to roll on its own, use a "hair rat" or a small foam donut cut in half as a filler. Roll the hair over the padding and pin it securely against the head.
Once the back roll is secured, take the loose front sections and twist them backward, draping them over the top of the roll you just created. Tuck the ends of these front twists into the roll and pin them invisibly. This not only adds detail to the style but also helps to cover the mechanics of the back roll. Finish with a strong-hold hairspray. This technique effectively hides the length of the hair, making it impossible to tell where the hair ends, creating a convincing illusion of length.
Technique 3: The Braided Crown Hack
Braids are a short-haired person's best friend when learning how to fake an updo. Braids act as structural integrity, holding short layers in place better than simple twisting. A braided crown or "milkmaid" braid style can scoop up all the shorter layers around the face and neck, keeping them secure while looking incredibly intricate.
The Dutch Braid Advantage
For short hair, Dutch braids (where the strands are crossed under rather than over) are superior to French braids because they pop out from the head, adding volume and distraction. Start parting the hair down the center or slightly off-center. distinct sections. Begin braiding from the front hairline, following the curve of the head down behind the ears and toward the nape of the neck. As you braid, incorporate small sections of hair, keeping the tension tight to catch the shorter layers.
If your hair is too short to connect the two braids at the back, simply braid as far as you can and secure the ends with clear elastics. Then, take the tail of the left braid and tuck it under the right braid, pinning it in place. Do the same with the right braid, tucking it under the left. If you have a "tail" at the nape that is too short to braid, twist it up and pin it flat against the head, then use the two side braids to cover that section. Pull apart the loops of the braid (pancaking) to make them look twice as thick. This creates a romantic, bohemian halo that completely disguises the actual length of the hair.
Technique 4: The Faux Hawk Updo
For those with pixie cuts or very short bobs, the Faux Hawk updo is an edgy yet elegant option. This style relies on vertical stacking and height rather than gathering hair at the nape. It draws the eye upward and creates a silhouette that mimics a high-fashion updo without requiring long lengths to wrap around.
Creating Vertical Drama
Divide the hair into three or four horizontal sections, starting from the forehead and moving down to the nape. Secure each section into a ponytail down the center of the head. You will end up with a row of ponytails resembling a mohawk. Take the top ponytail, curl the ends, and pin the curls messily to cover the elastic band. Move to the second ponytail and do the same, pinning the hair so it merges with the section above it.
Continue this process down the back of the head. For the very bottom section at the nape, twist the hair upward and pin it into the section above it. The goal is to create a cascade of curls and texture down the center of the head. Keep the sides sleek and tight against the scalp—you can use gel or strong wax to smooth the sides back—to emphasize the volume in the center. This style is fantastic for short hair because it celebrates the layers rather than trying to hide them, resulting in a spunky, modern formal look.
Essential Tools and Products
To successfully execute these styles, a standard comb and brush are insufficient. The toolkit for short hair updos is specific and non-negotiable. Without these items, the structural integrity of the style will be compromised.
1. Bobby Pins vs. U-Pins: You need both. Standard bobby pins (the ones with the ridges) are for clamping hair tight against the scalp. They are the anchors. U-pins (open hairpins) are for securing buns and twists without flattening the volume. They catch the hair and hold it in a shape rather than pinning it flat.
2. Clear Polybands: Standard fabric hair ties are too bulky for short hair. Tiny, clear polybands are essential for creating the small ponytails that serve as the foundation for many faux updos. They disappear into the hair and provide a grip that pins alone cannot achieve.
3. Texturizing Powder: Often overlooked, texturizing powder (or dust) is a game-changer for short hair. Sprinkled at the roots or on a braid, it provides intense friction. This friction prevents silky hair from sliding out of pins. It is significantly more potent than hairspray for structural hold.
4. Working Spray vs. Finishing Spray: A working spray allows you to manipulate the hair after spraying—it stays flexible. Use this while styling. A finishing spray is the "lacquer" that freezes the style in place once you are done. Do not confuse the two, or you will end up with a crunchy, unworkable mess halfway through the process.
Pro Tips for All-Day Hold
The Lock Technique: Never just slide a bobby pin in and hope for the best. To lock a pin, insert the open end into the hair in the opposite direction of where you want it to settle. Then, flip the pin over and push it in the correct direction. This weaves the pin through the hair, making it nearly impossible to slide out.
Hide the Nape: The biggest giveaway of a faux updo is the short hairs at the nape of the neck falling down. If these hairs are too short to pin up, use a strong-hold wax to slick them upward, or embrace the "messy" look and curl them so they look like intentional tendrils. Alternatively, use a decorative scarf or headband to physically cover the underside of the style.
Backcombing is Your Friend: Do not be afraid of backcombing (teasing). Short hair needs bulk to look like an updo. Teasing the hair at the crown and within the buns creates a dense mesh of hair that pins can bite into. Just be sure to smooth the very top layer so the style looks polished, not frizzy.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How short is too short for an updo? A: If you have a pixie cut with at least 3-4 inches of length on top, you can create a faux hawk updo. For chignon styles or buns, a chin-length bob is usually the minimum requirement to effectively cover the nape.
Q: My hair is very fine and slips out of everything. What can I do? A: Texture is the answer. You must dirty up the hair. Use a crimper on the under-layers of your hair to create physical texture, or use a heavy dose of dry shampoo and texturizing powder. Clean, fine hair will not hold a faux updo.
Q: How do I hide the bobby pins? A: Use matte bobby pins that match your hair color exactly. Also, ensure you are pushing the pins into the center of the bun or twist, rather than pinning over the top. The hair should cover the pin. If a pin is visible, use a small hook of hair to pull over it.
Q: Can I use hair extensions for a faux updo? A: Absolutely. Clip-in extensions are a great way to add volume. You can clip them in upside down at the nape of the neck so that when you pull the hair up, the clips are hidden and the hair flows upward naturally.
Q: How do I prevent the style from looking like a helmet? A: Pull out face-framing pieces before you start pinning. Soft wisps around the ears and temples soften the look. Also, use your fingers to gently tug at the crown to create height and irregularity, which looks more natural than a tight, sleek pull-back.
Conclusion
Learning how to fake an updo with short hair opens up a world of stylistic possibilities that go far beyond the daily blow-dry. It requires a shift in mindset—viewing the hair not as one single mass, but as a series of sections to be manipulated individually. By mastering the art of the multi-bun, the roll, and the braid, and by equipping yourself with the right texturizing products, you can achieve sophisticated, gravity-defying styles that rival any long-haired look. Short hair is not a limitation; it is merely a different canvas waiting for a creative touch. So grab your bobby pins and texturizing spray, and start experimenting with the elegance of the faux updo.
