Medieval Hairstyles: A Journey Through History and Modern Adaptation

The history of beauty is a mirror to the history of civilization, and nowhere is this more evident than in the evolution of Medieval hairstyles. Spanning roughly from the 5th to the 15th century, the Middle Ages was a period of immense transformation, cultural exchange, and distinct social stratification. While popular media often depicts this era with a gritty, unwashed aesthetic, the reality of hair care and styling during the medieval period was far more complex, hygienic, and artistically significant.

From the loose, flowing locks of the early Germanic tribes to the towering, gravity-defying headdresses of the Late Middle Ages, hair was a primary indicator of wealth, age, marital status, and religion. Today, we see a massive resurgence of these styles, fueled by fantasy literature, television series, and a growing appreciation for the intricate craftsmanship of braiding. This guide explores the depths of medieval hair history and offers insight into how professional stylists are reinterpreting these classic looks for the modern world.

The Cultural Significance of Hair in the Middle Ages

To understand Medieval hairstyles, one must first understand the strict social codes that governed them. Unlike the modern era, where self-expression is paramount, medieval fashion was largely dictated by one's station in life. Hair was not just an aesthetic feature; it was a communicative tool that signaled a person's role in society immediately upon sight.

Marital Status and Modesty

For women, hair was inextricably linked to virtue and marital status. In many parts of medieval Europe, particularly under the influence of the Church, a woman's hair was considered her "crowning glory" but also a source of temptation. Consequently, distinct rules applied:

• Unmarried Maidens: Young, unmarried women were generally permitted to wear their hair loose and flowing. This symbolized purity and virginity. On feast days or special occasions, they might adorn their loose locks with a simple circlet of flowers or a thin ribbon band known as a fillet.

• Married Women: Upon marriage, the rules changed drastically. A married woman was expected to cover her hair as a sign of modesty and submission to her husband. To show one's hair in public was often considered scandalous, akin to a form of undress. This cultural norm gave rise to the incredible variety of veils, wimples, and headdresses that define the medieval silhouette.

The Role of Hygiene

Contrary to the popular myth that medieval people were perpetually dirty, hair care was taken seriously, especially among the upper classes. Combs made of bone, wood, or ivory were common household items found in archaeological digs. Herbal infusions using rosemary, chamomile, and nettle were used to rinse hair, promoting shine and scalp health. While daily bathing was not the norm due to the labor involved in heating water, grooming—including brushing and braiding—was a daily ritual.

The Era of Braids: Function Meets Fashion

If there is one technique that defines Medieval hairstyles, it is braiding. Braids served a dual purpose: they kept long hair manageable and clean during daily tasks, and they provided a foundation for the elaborate headwear of the time. As the centuries progressed, braiding evolved from simple three-strand plaits to complex architectural feats.

The Classic Two-Strand Twist and Plaits

In the Early Middle Ages, styles were relatively simple. Women often parted their hair down the center and created two long braids (plaits) that hung down the chest. To add length—a highly desirable trait—women would weave in ribbons, wool, or even hair extensions made from the hair of others. These braids were often finished with decorative metal cylinders or fabric encasements called "parrock."

The Ram’s Horn and Coiled Styles

As the High Middle Ages approached, the fashion shifted toward keeping the neck visible. This led to the development of coiled styles. One of the most iconic looks involved braiding the hair into two plaits and then coiling them over the ears, resembling ram's horns. This style, often secured with pins and covered with a fine mesh net known as a "crespine," created a wider silhouette that balanced the voluminous robes of the era.

The Crown Braid

For those who needed practical hairstyles that stayed out of the way, the crown braid (or halo braid) was a staple. This involved wrapping braids around the circumference of the head. It was a style that transcended class boundaries; peasant women wore it for utility during harvest, while noblewomen wore intricate versions threaded with gold wire and pearls for court appearances.

Headwear and Headdresses: The Art of Concealment

Because adult women were expected to cover their hair, the history of Medieval hairstyles is actually a history of headwear. The hair underneath was styled specifically to support the structure of the hat or veil. The evolution of these accessories is a fascinating study in medieval engineering and fashion.

The Wimple and Gorget

Perhaps the most recognizable medieval accessory is the wimple. Originating in the 12th century, the wimple was a piece of fine linen or silk draped under the chin and pinned to the hair or a veil at the top of the head. It covered the neck and throat completely. Often worn with a "gorget" (a band of linen wrapped around the head), this style framed the face severely. While today it is mostly associated with nuns, in the 13th century, it was the standard of fashion for all respectable married women.

The Barbette and Fillet

A lighter alternative to the wimple was the barbette—a strap of linen worn under the chin and pinned to the top of the head—paired with a fillet, a stiff band worn like a crown. This allowed for more hair to be visible, usually in the form of netted buns at the side of the head. This look was popularized by royalty, including Eleanor of Aquitaine, and represented a shift toward more decorative fashion.

The Hennin: Reaching for the Heavens

By the Late Middle Ages (15th century), specifically in the Burgundian court, headwear reached extreme heights. The Hennin was the cone-shaped hat often depicted in fairy tales about princesses. These could range from small cones to towering structures nearly three feet high. To wear a Hennin, a woman had to pluck or shave her hairline to achieve a high forehead—a highly prized feature of beauty at the time. A sheer veil would then be draped from the tip of the cone, floating behind the wearer.

Men’s Hairstyles of the Middle Ages

While women’s hair history is dominated by concealment, men’s Medieval hairstyles were about display and political affiliation. Men's trends fluctuated wildly depending on the ruler of the time and the region.

The Pageboy and Bowl Cut

The "bowl cut" is the stereotypical medieval male haircut, but it was genuinely popular during the Henry V era. It involved shaving the back of the neck and sides while leaving the hair on top long and rounded. This style was practical for wearing helmets, as it provided padding without the hair getting caught in chainmail. It also required less maintenance than long hair.

Long Hair and Nobility

For much of the medieval period, long hair on men was a sign of virility and freedom. The Merovingian kings, for example, were known as the "long-haired kings," and cutting a king's hair was a way to delegitimize his claim to the throne. In later centuries, fashionable men curled their hair with heated tongs. However, the church frequently railed against long hair on men, associating it with vanity and sin, leading to cyclical trends of short, Roman-style cuts followed by returns to longer lengths.

Beards and Facial Hair

Facial hair trends oscillated between clean-shaven faces (influenced by Roman tradition and ecclesiastical rules) and full, groomed beards. In the Viking age and early medieval period, a beard was a sign of masculinity and wisdom. By the 15th century, however, the clean-shaven look became de rigueur for the fashionable Burgundian nobility, matching the sleek lines of their clothing.

The Viking Influence: Norse Aesthetics

Although the Viking Age technically predates the High Middle Ages, its aesthetic influence permeates the broader medieval conversation, especially in modern styling. Norse grooming was surprisingly advanced. Archaeological finds include tweezers, razors, and fine-toothed combs.

Undercuts and Braids

Viking men often wore their hair long in the front and shaved in the back—a reverse mullet of sorts—which prevented hair from being grabbed in battle while maintaining the intimidating look of length. Braids were used to control beards and long hair. Today, the "Viking Braid" style, characterized by tight french braids on the sides leading into a messy bun or ponytail, is a top request in salons for men looking for an edgy, historical look.

Shield Maiden Styles

While historical evidence for "shield maidens" is debated, the hairstyle associated with them—complex, tight braiding close to the scalp, often incorporating leather strips or metal beads—has become a staple of the "fantasy medieval" look. These styles are practical, durable, and fiercely beautiful, bridging the gap between historical fact and modern fiction.

Modern Interpretations and Salon Trends

Why are Medieval hairstyles relevant in 2026? The cyclical nature of fashion, combined with the influence of high-budget period dramas and fantasy epics, has brought these looks back to the forefront. However, modern stylists rarely recreate these looks with total historical accuracy; instead, they adapt the essence of the style for modern wearability.

The "Game of Thrones" Effect

The intricate weaving seen in modern fantasy media has popularized the "half-up, half-down" style with elaborate braiding. Modern brides frequently request "Khaleesi-style" braids or "Sansa Stark" updos. These styles utilize the medieval technique of adding texture and volume but dispense with the heavy veils and wimples, allowing the hair itself to be the ornamentation.

Festival and Wedding Hair

Medieval-inspired hair is a top choice for bohemian and outdoor weddings. The soft, romantic nature of loose braids interwoven with wildflowers calls back to the medieval feast days. Similarly, Renaissance Faires and cosplay events drive a significant demand for authentic styling, where professional stylists utilize extensions and padding to recreate the gravity-defying shapes of the 1400s without the need for uncomfortable wires.

Accessory Resurgence

We are seeing a return of hair jewelry that mimics medieval styles. Gold cuffs, pearl-studded pins, and even modern interpretations of the circlet are appearing on runways. Stylists are learning to anchor these heavy accessories securely using techniques derived from historical methods, such as hidden anchor braids.

Tips for Achieving a Medieval-Inspired Look

Whether for a themed event or a daily look with a historical twist, achieving the perfect Medieval hairstyle requires specific techniques. Here are expert tips for nailing the aesthetic:

• Texture is Key: Medieval hair was not freshly washed every day. To get braids to hold and look voluminous, use texturizing spray or dry shampoo on clean hair. "Slippery" hair is the enemy of intricate braiding.

• Use Padding: The volume seen in historical paintings was rarely all natural hair. Don't be afraid to use hair donuts or rats (mesh padding) to create the bulk for a crown braid or chignon. This reduces tension on your actual hair roots.

• Invest in Extensions: For the long, flowing plaits of the 12th century, clip-in extensions are a modern necessity. They add the thickness required to make a braid look regal rather than stringy.

• Ribbon Weaving: An easy way to medieval-ize a standard braid is to tie a ribbon to the base of a ponytail and treat it as one of the three strands in your plait. Velvet or satin ribbons add instant historical flair.

• Hide the Ends: Medieval styles were often about containment. When doing a crown braid, tuck the ends of the braids underneath the bulk of the hair and pin them securely so the style looks like a continuous circle.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: Did medieval women really shave their hairlines? A: Yes, particularly in the 14th and 15th centuries. A high forehead was considered a sign of beauty and intelligence. Women would pluck or shave their hairlines to recede them, allowing their headdresses (like the Hennin) to sit further back and accentuate the face.

Q: How did they curl their hair without electricity? A: Women and men used heated tongs (calamistrum) heated in fires. Alternatively, they used rag curls—wrapping damp hair around strips of fabric and sleeping on them overnight, a technique that is still effective and damage-free today.

Q: What is the difference between a plait and a braid? A: In modern terminology, they are often used interchangeably. Historically, "plait" usually referred to the standard three-strand weave, while "braiding" could encompass more complex weaving patterns. In the UK, "plait" is the common term, while "braid" is standard in the US.

Q: Were hair extensions used in the Middle Ages? A: Absolutely. Wealthy women would purchase hair (often from peasant women) to add volume to their own styles. They also used wool, moss, or hemp as stuffing inside hairnets to create volume.

Q: Can I wear a medieval style to a formal corporate event? A: Yes, if modernized. A sleek, tight crown braid is very professional and keeps hair off the face. Avoid the loose, messy "tavern wench" look for professional settings and opt for the structured elegance of noble styles.

Q: How do I prevent traction alopecia with heavy braids? A: This is a valid concern. Ensure that the base of the braid isn't pulling tight against the scalp. Change the parting of your hair regularly and do not wear heavy, pinned-up styles every single day. Professional stylists can show you how to distribute the weight of the hair evenly.

Conclusion

Medieval hairstyles offer a rich tapestry of inspiration for the modern world. They remind us that hair has always been a canvas for art, status, and identity. From the practical durability of the peasant's plait to the architectural wonder of the noblewoman's hennin, these styles demonstrate the ingenuity of the past. By blending these historical techniques with modern products and tools, we can keep the elegance of the Middle Ages alive. Whether you are looking for a protective style, a wedding look, or simply a new way to express yourself, looking back to history is often the best way to move forward in fashion.