Perm for Diamond Faces: Do's and Don'ts | The Ultimate Styling Guide
In the ever-evolving world of hair texture and styling, the permanent wave—or "perm"—has undergone a massive renaissance. Gone are the days of the frizzy, uniform poodle curls of the 1980s. Today, modern perming techniques offer everything from beachy waves to Korean-inspired digital curls, allowing for a high degree of customization. However, simply choosing a curl pattern isn't enough; the success of a hairstyle relies heavily on how well it complements the individual's facial structure. This is particularly true for those with a diamond face shape.
Understanding the geometry of the face is the secret weapon of professional hair stylists. For the diamond face shape—characterized by high, dramatic cheekbones, a narrow forehead, and a narrow, pointed chin—the goal of any texture service is balance. A perm can be a transformative tool for diamond faces, used to soften angular features and create width where it is lacking. Conversely, the wrong placement of curls can exaggerate the width of the cheekbones, throwing the face off balance. This comprehensive guide explores the essential do's and don'ts of getting a perm for diamond faces, ensuring that your next salon visit results in a flattering, harmonious look.
Understanding the Diamond Face Architecture
Before diving into specific perm techniques, it is crucial to understand exactly what defines a diamond face shape. It is often considered the most angular of all face shapes and is somewhat rare. The defining feature is the cheekbones, which are the widest part of the face. Unlike an oval face, where the width is distributed somewhat evenly, or a round face, where the width is carried in the cheeks with soft edges, the diamond face has sharp transitions. The hairline is typically narrow, and the jawline tapers sharply to a point.
Because the cheekbones are already dominant, adding excessive volume at this specific level can make the face appear disproportionately wide. The aesthetic objective for this face shape is to minimize the width at the cheekbones while adding fullness to the forehead and the chin area. By doing so, the face shape moves visually closer to an oval, which is generally considered the "ideal" balanced shape in cosmetology. Texture, when applied correctly, is the perfect medium to achieve this optical illusion.
Perms introduce volume, movement, and width. Therefore, the strategic placement of the curl is just as important, if not more so, than the size of the curl itself. A skilled stylist will look at a diamond face as a canvas that requires softening. Sharp angles at the jaw and cheeks can be diffused with soft waves, while a narrow chin can be counterbalanced with voluminous curls that sit at the jawline. Understanding this architecture is the first step in avoiding a styling disaster and achieving a look that highlights the eyes and cheekbones without widening the face.
The Golden Rules: Do's for Perming a Diamond Face
When consulting with a stylist about perming a diamond face, specific strategies should be prioritized to enhance natural beauty. These "do's" focus on redistribution of volume and softening of lines.
Do: Focus Volume at the Chin and Jawline
One of the most effective ways to balance a diamond face is to add width to the lower portion of the face. A perm that transitions into fuller curls at the chin level is incredibly flattering. This technique fills in the negative space created by the narrowing jawline, making the chin appear slightly broader and less pointed. Styles like a textured lob (long bob) where the curls are most vibrant at the ends are ideal. This draws the eye downward and creates a triangular silhouette that counteracts the diamond's natural shape.Do: Opt for Soft, Loose Waves Over Tight Coils
While tight coils can be beautiful, they often create a massive amount of horizontal volume. For a diamond face, softer, looser waves—often achieved through a body wave or a digital perm—are generally more forgiving. Soft waves glide over the cheekbones rather than expanding outward from them. They provide the necessary movement and texture to soften the angularity of the face without adding unwanted bulk to the widest points. Think of "S" waves or beach waves that drape elegantly around the face frame.Do: Incorporate Side-Swept Bangs or Fringe
Since diamond faces have narrow foreheads, keeping the hair completely off the face can sometimes make the forehead look pinched. Incorporating a permed, side-swept bang or a soft curtain bang can work wonders. A light texture in the fringe adds width to the temple area, effectively opening up the upper part of the face. It breaks up the length of the face and draws attention to the eyes. However, the fringe should be soft and wispy rather than heavy and blunt, which leads us into our next section on pitfalls.The Critical Mistakes: Don'ts for Perming a Diamond Face
Just as there are techniques that enhance a diamond face, there are specific styling choices that can distort the features. Avoiding these common mistakes is essential for a harmonious result.
Don't: Add Excessive Volume at the Cheekbones
This is the cardinal sin for diamond face shapes. If a perm is wound in a way that creates a "halo" of tight curls specifically around the ears and cheekbones, it will visually widen the face significantly. This creates a harsh, overly angular look. Avoid styles that are cut short to the ear level with tight curls, as this emphasizes the width where you want to minimize it. The hair shaft near the cheekbones should ideally be flatter or have a softer wave, with the volume increasing above or below this zone.Don't: Choose a Center Part with Heavy Root Volume
A strict center part combined with high-volume curls starting at the root can elongate the face while simultaneously highlighting the width of the cheeks. It tends to create a curtain effect that hides the narrow forehead (which needs opening) and exposes the wide cheeks. Instead, off-center parts or deep side parts are preferable as they create asymmetry, which disrupts the sharp angles of the face and softens the overall look.Don't: Go for the "Pyramid" Shape on Short Hair
While volume at the jaw is good, the "pyramid" or triangle shape on short hair can be tricky. If the hair is too short (above the chin) and permed into a triangle shape, it can sometimes mimic the bottom half of the diamond shape too closely or look unbalanced. The length needs to be sufficient (usually chin-length or longer) to allow the curls to drape and soften the jawline rather than sitting stiffly on top of it.Selecting the Right Type of Perm
Not all perms are created equal. The chemical process and the tools used dictate the final texture, and some methods are inherently better suited for the contouring required for diamond faces.
Digital Perms (Hot Perms)
Digital perms are highly recommended for diamond faces because they excel at creating loose, natural-looking waves that are prominent at the ends of the hair rather than the root. In a digital perm, the hair is wrapped around heated rods. This technique allows for the hair to be smoother near the root and mid-lengths (gliding past the cheekbones) and curlier at the ends (adding volume to the chin). This aligns perfectly with the structural needs of a diamond face shape. The result is often described as a "blow-out" look that requires less daily styling to maintain that soft, romantic drape.Body Waves
A body wave uses larger rods to create a loose texture rather than a tight curl. This is an excellent option for those who want to soften their angular features without committing to a full head of curls. Body waves add movement and life to straight hair, preventing it from hanging limply against the face, which can accentuate sharp angles. This method allows for subtle volume at the temples and jawline without the risk of the "frizz" effect that can widen the face at the cheeks.Root Perms (Use with Caution)
Root perms are designed to lift the hair at the scalp. For a diamond face, a root perm can be useful only at the crown and temple area to balance the narrow forehead. However, it must be applied strategically. A stylist should avoid perming the roots at the sides of the head (above the ears), as this will expand the silhouette horizontally. Root perms are best used as a spot treatment in conjunction with other texturizing techniques to perfect the overall shape.The Role of Layering with Permed Hair
The haircut is just as important as the perm itself. You cannot simply perm a blunt cut on a diamond face and expect it to sit correctly. Layering is the architecture that supports the curls.
For diamond faces, long layers are the best friend of a perm. Layers that start below the cheekbone allow the curl to spring up around the chin and collarbone area. If layers are cut too short (around the cheekbones/ears), the curls will stack on top of each other at the widest part of the face, creating that unwanted width. Face-framing layers that curve inward at the chin can also help to round out the pointed jawline.
Ask your stylist for "invisible layers" or internal layering if you have thick hair. This removes bulk from the mid-lengths (preventing the cheek area from looking puffy) while encouraging curl definition at the ends. The combination of a digital perm and long, texturized layers creates a fluid, cascading effect that is universally flattering for angular faces.
Styling and Maintenance for Longevity
Once the perm is set, the way it is styled at home contributes significantly to how it interacts with the face shape. Proper maintenance ensures the curls remain soft and defined rather than turning into a frizzy halo.
Hydration is Key
Permed hair is chemically treated hair, which means it is more porous and prone to dryness. Dry curls expand and become frizzy. Frizz creates undefined volume, which can ruin the careful silhouette created for a diamond face. Use sulfate-free shampoos and rich, moisturizing conditioners. Incorporating a weekly deep conditioning mask is non-negotiable to keep the cuticle smooth and the curls elastic.The Art of Diffusing
When styling, use a diffuser attachment on your blow dryer. For diamond faces, avoid drying the hair upside down, as this creates massive root volume everywhere. Instead, tilt the head to the side and cup the ends of the hair into the diffuser, scrunching up toward the chin. This encourages volume at the ends. To keep the cheek area flatter, you can gently rake your fingers through the mid-lengths while they are damp to elongate the wave in that specific section before diffusing the ends.Product Selection
Avoid heavy, crunchy mousses that freeze the hair in place. Opt for curl creams or styling milks that offer a flexible hold. The goal is soft, touchable movement. A small amount of argan oil or serum applied to the ends after drying can separate the curls and add a healthy shine, drawing attention to the jawline and neck area.Tips for Your Salon Consultation
Bring Visuals: Bring photos of curls you like, but also photos of the shape* you want. Show the stylist where you want the volume to sit.- Discuss Your Morning Routine: Be honest about how much time you have to style. A digital perm might be better if you want "wash and wear," whereas a cold wave might require more product manipulation.
- Analyze Your Hair History: If you have bleached or heavily damaged hair, a perm might not be viable. The health of the hair dictates the quality of the curl.
- Ask for a "Face Shape Assessment": Even if you are sure you have a diamond face, ask the stylist to verify. They might see nuances that affect the cut and curl placement.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. Can I get a perm if I have a diamond face and short hair? Yes, but the style needs to be chosen carefully. A pixie cut with texture on top can look great, adding height to balance the width. However, avoid ear-length bobs with tight curls, as this widens the face. A bixie (bob-pixie hybrid) with soft waves is often a better choice.
2. Will a perm make my face look wider? Only if the curls are placed incorrectly. If the volume is concentrated at the cheekbones, yes, it will look wider. If the volume is focused at the chin and the crown, it will actually make the face look more oval and balanced.
3. How long does a perm last on a diamond face style? Typically, a perm lasts between 3 to 6 months, depending on the tightness of the curl and the rate of hair growth. As the roots grow out straight, the volume at the top will decrease, which can actually be flattering for diamond faces as it keeps the silhouette sleek at the top, provided the ends maintain their curl.
4. Should I get bangs with my perm? Curtain bangs or long, side-swept bangs are highly recommended for diamond faces. They can be lightly permed to have a soft bend. Avoid heavy, straight-across blunt bangs, as they shorten the face and emphasize the width of the cheekbones.
5. What is the difference between a cold wave and a digital perm for this face shape? A cold wave creates a tighter, more defined curl from the root, which is great for volume but risky for diamond faces if not layered correctly. A digital perm uses heat and creates a looser, softer wave that looks more like a blowout and is usually easier to contour around angular features.
6. Can I color my hair and perm it at the same time? Most professional salons advise against doing both chemical services in the same appointment to preserve hair integrity. It is usually recommended to wait at least two weeks between services. Always prioritize the texture service first, as perming can sometimes fade hair color.
Conclusion
Having a diamond face shape is a unique and striking asset, featuring high-fashion angles that many contour with makeup to achieve. A perm should be viewed as a tool to enhance this natural architecture, not hide it. By following the principles of volume redistribution—keeping the cheekbones streamlined while adding softness to the chin and temples—you can rock a curly style that is both modern and incredibly flattering.
The key lies in communication with your stylist. Move away from the idea of "just getting curls" and move toward "designing a silhouette." whether you opt for a beachy digital perm or a voluminous body wave, the right texture can soften your features and boost your confidence. Embrace the versatility of textured hair, and let your diamond shape shine through the perfect set of curls.
