Raking vs. Praying Hands for Product: The Ultimate Guide to Curl Definition

For those with textured hair—whether it be loose waves, bouncy curls, or tight coils—the journey to the perfect hair day is often less about the product itself and more about how that product is applied. Two terms dominate the conversation in professional salons and online curl communities alike: Raking and Praying Hands.

The debate of Raking vs. Praying Hands for product application is a fundamental discussion in the world of hair styling. Each method manipulates the hair strand differently, affecting how the curl clumps, how much volume is achieved, and importantly, how much frizz is controlled. Understanding the mechanics behind these techniques is the key to unlocking the full potential of a hairstyle.

This comprehensive guide explores the nuances of both techniques, the science behind them, and how to determine which method—or combination of methods—is right for specific hair goals.

Understanding the Basics: Application Matters

Before diving into the specific pros and cons, it is essential to understand that water serves as the primary carrier for any styling product. Whether using a leave-in conditioner, a curl cream, or a strong-hold gel, the hair must usually be wet to damp for these techniques to work effectively. The interaction between water, product, and hand movement determines the final structure of the curl pattern once dry.

When stylists discuss product application, they are referring to the mechanical action used to coat the hair strands. The goal is uniform distribution. Without uniform distribution, some sections of the hair may become weighed down and greasy, while others remain dry, frizzy, and undefined. Raking and Praying Hands are simply two different mechanical routes to achieve this distribution, but they yield vastly different aesthetic results.

The Raking Method: Volume and Detangling

What is Raking?

The raking method involves using the fingers as a makeshift wide-tooth comb. After applying the product to the palms, the fingers are spread apart and pulled through the hair from root to tip (or mid-length to tip). This action physically separates the hair strands while coating them with the product.

The Mechanics of Raking

When hair is raked, the fingers act as separators. This breaks up large, natural clumps of curls into smaller, individual tendrils. By separating the hair, air is allowed to circulate more freely between the strands, which speeds up drying time and, more importantly, creates significant volume.

Benefits of Raking

Maximum Detangling: Because the fingers are constantly combing through the hair, raking ensures that any remaining knots or tangles are smoothed out during the styling process.

Even Distribution: Raking is excellent for ensuring that the product reaches the inner layers of the hair, not just the canopy. It physically pushes the product into the density of the hair.

Enhanced Volume: By breaking up large clumps, raking creates more individual curls. More curls equal more surface area, which results in a fuller, more voluminous look once the hair is dry.

The Downsides of Raking

The primary drawback of raking is the disruption of the curl pattern. For some hair types, specifically those with looser wave patterns or fine hair, raking can cause the hair to become stringy. Furthermore, the friction caused by fingers dragging against the cuticle can induce wet frizz, which may dry into undefined fluff rather than a structured curl.

The Praying Hands Method: Smoothing and Definition

What are Praying Hands?

The Praying Hands method (often referred to as the "smoothing" method) involves rubbing the product between the palms, then flattening the hands together with a section of hair sandwiched in between. The hands slide from the root down to the ends in a prayer-like motion, smoothing the product over the surface of the hair.

The Mechanics of Praying Hands

Unlike raking, which separates, the Praying Hands technique forces the hair together. It encourages the hair to bond into large, unified clumps. This method smooths the cuticle down, locking in moisture and sealing the hair shaft against humidity.

Benefits of Praying Hands

Superior Frizz Control: By smoothing the hair downwards, the cuticle is flattened. This creates a reflective surface (shine) and significantly reduces halo frizz.

Enhanced Definition: This method encourages "clumping," where multiple strands of hair group together to form a thick, defined curl or wave. This is ideal for those who prefer a structured, polished look over a wild, voluminous one.

Elongation: The downward traction applied during the smoothing process can help elongate tight shrinkage, showing off more of the hair's actual length.

The Downsides of Praying Hands

The main criticism of the Praying Hands method is that it can sometimes result in a "flat" look. Because the curls are clumped so tightly, there is less volume. Additionally, if the hair is very thick or dense, the product might sit on the outer surface of the clump while the hairs in the center remain dry, leading to inconsistent results.

Raking vs. Praying Hands: The Head-to-Head Comparison

When choosing between Raking vs. Praying Hands for product application, it often comes down to a choice between volume and definition. It is rare to get 100% of both with a single technique, though hybrid methods exist.

Volume vs. Definition

Choose Raking if the goal is big, voluminous hair and you don't mind a little bit of functional frizz. This is often preferred by those with fine, low-density hair who want to create the illusion of thickness.

Choose Praying Hands if the goal is shiny, highly defined, frizz-free spirals. This is often preferred by those with high-density hair who want to control the bulk and avoid looking "poofy."

Product Absorption

Raking forces product into the hair shaft, making it ideal for low porosity hair that struggles to absorb moisture. The physical friction generates a slight heat and lifts the cuticle slightly to let the product in.

Praying Hands lays product on top, creating a cast. This acts as a sealant, which is excellent for high porosity hair that releases moisture too quickly.

The Hybrid Approach: Best of Both Worlds

Professional stylists often find that a binary choice between Raking vs. Praying Hands for product is unnecessary. The most effective routines often combine both techniques to maximize the benefits and minimize the drawbacks.

The "Rake and Shake"

This involves raking the product through to ensure thorough distribution and detangling. Once the fingers reach the ends of the hair, the stylist holds the ends and gently shakes the hand back and forth. This encourages the separated strands to re-clump naturally without losing the volume created by the rake.

The "Rake then Smooth"

This is perhaps the most popular hybrid method.

Step 1: Apply a leave-in conditioner using the raking method to detangle and distribute moisture.

Step 2: Apply a gel or mousse using the praying hands method.

This technique ensures the hair is moisturized internally but sealed externally. The raking provides the volume foundation, while the final step of praying hands smooths down the frizz caused by the raking.

Scrunching is Key

Regardless of whether one rakes or smooths, almost all textured hair routines should end with "scrunching." Cupping the hair in the hands and pulsing upward toward the scalp encourages the curl pattern to bounce back. If praying hands made the hair too flat, scrunching will reintroduce the spring factor.

Analyzing Hair Types for Application Methods

Not all hair textures react the same way to mechanical manipulation. Here is a general breakdown of how different types respond to Raking vs. Praying Hands.

Wavy Hair (Type 2)

Wavy hair is easily weighed down and easily pulled straight.

Verdict: Scrunching and Raking. Praying hands can sometimes pull the wave out entirely, leaving the hair straight. Raking helps separate waves to create fullness, but gentle scrunching is the most important step for this hair type.

Curly Hair (Type 3)

Curly hair has a definite S-shape or loop.

Verdict: The Hybrid Method. Type 3 hair benefits from the detangling of raking but needs the smoothing of praying hands to prevent the "triangle head" look. A rake-then-smooth approach is usually the gold standard here.

Coily Hair (Type 4)

Coily hair has a tight zig-zag pattern and is prone to shrinkage and dryness.

Verdict: Raking (Shingling) or Praying Hands with Heavy Product. Coily hair often needs the product physically worked into the strands (raking). However, for styles like wash-and-gos where elongation is desired, praying hands can help stretch the coil. Many with Type 4 hair use a variation of raking called "shingling," where product is applied to very small sections individually.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even with the correct technique, execution errors can ruin the final look.

applying on Dry Hair

Both Raking and Praying Hands rely on "slip." Applying styling products to dry or damp hair creates friction. This friction causes breakage and frizz. Hair should be soaking wet or very damp when performing these motions.

Aggressive Raking

Raking should not be a battle. If fingers are getting stuck, the hair is not detangled enough, or there isn't enough water/conditioner present. Forcing fingers through tangles will snap the hair and ruin the curl pattern.

Inconsistent Tension

With Praying Hands, maintaining consistent pressure is vital. Too loose, and the frizz isn't smoothed down; too tight, and the product is squeezed right off the hair and onto the floor.

Professional Tips for Perfect Application

Sectioning is Non-Negotiable: Do not attempt to apply product to the whole head at once. Divide hair into at least 3-4 sections (bottom, middle, top) to ensure every strand gets attention.

Listen for the "Squish": When applying product, there should be a distinct squishing sound (often called "squish to condish"). If there is no sound, there isn't enough water in the hair.

Check the Back: The crown and the back of the head are the most common areas for frizz because they are harder to reach. Pay extra attention to these zones when using Praying Hands.

The Cast: Both methods, when used with gel, will create a "cast" (a crunchy shell). Do not touch the hair while it is drying. Once 100% dry, scrunch out the crunch to reveal soft curls.

FAQ: Raking vs. Praying Hands

1. Can I use praying hands for volume?

Generally, praying hands reduces volume in favor of definition. However, if you use praying hands and then flip your head upside down to scrunch vigorously, you can reintroduce volume at the roots while keeping the mid-lengths defined.

2. Does raking ruin curl clumps?

It can. Raking physically separates hairs that want to group together. If you find your curls look stringy after raking, follow up with a quick smooth over using praying hands, or add more water and scrunch to encourage them to re-clump.

3. Which method is better for fine hair?

Raking is usually better for fine hair because it encourages volume. Praying hands can cause fine hair to stick together in just a few large clumps, revealing the scalp and making the hair look sparse.

4. Should I rake in my gel or my cream?

A common professional recommendation is to rake in your leave-in conditioner or curl cream (to ensure moisture penetrates the hair) and then use praying hands to apply your gel (to seal the surface and lock in the style).

5. Why does my hair frizz even when I use praying hands?

This usually indicates a lack of water or product. If the hair is beginning to dry while applying product, frizz will form. Keep a spray bottle nearby to re-wet sections before smoothing them.

6. Is shingling the same as raking?

Shingling is a more precise, time-consuming version of raking. Instead of raking the whole hand through a large section, shingling involves separating each individual curl clump manually and smoothing product from root to tip. It provides the highest definition but takes the longest time.

Conclusion

The debate of Raking vs. Praying Hands for product application ultimately ends with a personal preference based on hair goals. There is no single "correct" way to style textured hair. Raking offers volume, detangling, and internal moisture distribution, making it a favorite for those seeking big, airy hair. Praying Hands offers sleekness, shine, and clump definition, ideal for those battling frizz and seeking control.

For many, the magic lies in the combination. By understanding how your hair responds to the mechanical manipulation of your fingers versus the smoothing pressure of your palms, you can curate a routine that creates the perfect balance of volume and definition. Experiment with both, mix them up, and listen to what your hair needs on any given day.