Styling Coily Hair: The Pull-Through Braid Guide

For individuals with coily hair—often categorized as Type 4 hair—finding a hairstyle that balances aesthetics, protection, and longevity is the ultimate goal. While box braids and cornrows have long been staples in the natural hair community, there is a contemporary contender that offers maximum impact with slightly less tension manipulation: the pull-through braid. This guide delves deep into the art of styling coily hair using the pull-through method, a technique that leverages the natural volume of coily textures to create architectural, gravity-defying styles.

The pull-through braid is technically a series of secured ponytails looped through one another to create a braid-like effect. For coily hair, this style is particularly advantageous. Unlike traditional braiding which requires weaving three strands and can sometimes compress the hair's volume, the pull-through method celebrates density. It allows the hair to expand within the "loops," creating a fuller, more dramatic appearance without the need for added extensions, although extensions can certainly be incorporated for extra length. Furthermore, it is an excellent low-manipulation style that keeps ends tucked away and protected from environmental stressors.

In this comprehensive guide, we will explore the nuances of preparing coily hair for this style, the tools required for a snag-free experience, a detailed step-by-step execution plan, and the critical maintenance required to keep edges healthy and coils hydrated. Whether the goal is a chic updo for a formal event or a durable protective style for the work week, mastering the pull-through braid opens up a new dimension of styling possibilities for textured hair.

Understanding Coily Hair Mechanics for Braiding

Before picking up a comb, it is essential to understand how coily hair behaves under structural styling. Coily hair is characterized by tight Z or S patterns that are prone to shrinkage. When styling a pull-through braid, shrinkage can be both a friend and a foe. On one hand, the texture provides the grip necessary for the elastic bands to stay in place without sliding, which is a common issue for straight hair. On the other hand, shrinkage can mask the true length of the hair, making the loops appear smaller than intended. Therefore, understanding the elasticity and density of the specific hair type is the first step in successful styling.

Moisture retention is another critical mechanical factor. Coily hair is naturally drier than other hair types because scalp oils have a harder time traveling down the spiraled shaft. A pull-through braid involves sectioning and securing hair with elastics, which can create pressure points. If the hair is dry and brittle, these pressure points can lead to breakage. Consequently, the "mechanics" of this style rely heavily on a foundation of hydration. The hair must be malleable enough to be manipulated into sections but strong enough to withstand the tension of the bands.

Finally, considering the fragility of the hairline is paramount. The "kitchen" (nape) and edges are the most delicate parts of coily hair. Because the pull-through braid relies on tension to maintain its structure, strategic sectioning is required to ensure that the pulling force is distributed evenly across the scalp rather than concentrated on a few follicles. Professional stylists often recommend modifying the size of the sections near the hairline to mitigate stress, ensuring the style remains protective rather than destructive.

Essential Tools and Product Arsenal

Success with coily hair styling is 80% preparation and product selection. For a pull-through braid, the tool kit differs slightly from traditional braiding. The most important tool is the elastic band. Standard rubber bands can cause significant friction and breakage on coily textures. It is highly recommended to use snag-free, coated elastic bands or polyurethane bands soaked in oil (like olive or jojoba) prior to use. This simple step lubricates the band, allowing it to be cut out or removed without tearing the hair shaft.

Regarding products, a high-quality leave-in conditioner and a styling cream or butter are non-negotiable. The leave-in conditioner provides the base moisture, while the thicker cream seals that moisture in—a method often referred to as the LCO (Liquid, Cream, Oil) or LOC method. For the parting process, a rat-tail comb is necessary to achieve clean, crisp lines that define the geometric look of the pull-through braid. However, for detangling, a wide-tooth comb or a flexible detangling brush should be used to prevent unnecessary shedding.

Edge control or a strong-hold gel is also a staple for this look. While the body of the braid embraces volume and texture, the beauty of the style often comes from the contrast between sleek, smoothed roots and the voluminous braid loops. A non-flaking edge control helps smooth the hair into the elastic bands, ensuring the sections look neat. Additionally, having hair clips on hand to manage the bulk of coily hair while working section by section is essential for maintaining order during the styling process.

Pre-Styling Prep: The Stretching Phase

Styling a pull-through braid on shrunken, wet coily hair can be difficult and may result in a style that becomes too tight as the hair dries and contracts. Therefore, stretching the hair beforehand is a highly recommended step. Stretching elongates the coils, revealing the hair's true length and making the sectioning process significantly easier. There are heat-free methods to achieve this, such as banding (wrapping thread or bands down the length of damp hair) or African threading, which are excellent for maintaining hair health.

If heat is an option, a blow-out using a blow dryer with a comb attachment can provide a smooth canvas. It is crucial to use a heat protectant spray to prevent thermal damage. The goal of the blow-out is not to get the hair bone straight, but rather to stretch the coil pattern enough to allow for easier manipulation and cleaner parting. This texture allows the loops of the pull-through braid to appear larger and more voluminous.

Once the hair is stretched, a final detangling session is necessary. Any knots or tangles left in the hair will become compacted once secured with elastics, leading to a nightmare during the takedown process. Ensuring the hair is thoroughly detangled from ends to roots before beginning the braiding process ensures a smoother workflow and a healthier outcome for the hair.

Step-by-Step Guide: Creating the Pull-Through Braid

1. Sectioning the Foundation

Begin by determining the trajectory of the braid. For a classic faux-hawk look, create a central part or section running from the forehead to the nape of the neck. Clip away the sides if you are doing a mohawk style, or incorporate all hair if doing a single large braid. Take a small section of hair at the very front of the hairline and secure it with an elastic band to create your first ponytail. Smooth the roots with gel or edge control before securing.

2. Establishing the Second Tier

Create a second horizontal part directly behind the first ponytail. Gather this section of hair and secure it into a second ponytail, sitting right behind the first one. You should now have two vertical ponytails lined up. Take the first ponytail (the one closest to the forehead) and split it into two equal halves. Take the second ponytail and flip it up, passing it between the two halves of the first ponytail. Clip the second ponytail (now flipped up) out of the way temporarily.

3. The Looping Technique

Now, take the two split halves of the first ponytail and bring them back down, surrounding the base of the second ponytail. Gather a new section of free hair from the head (the third section), combine it with the two split halves of the first ponytail, and secure this all together with a new elastic band. This creates the third ponytail. Unclip the second ponytail that was flipped up. You will see the "pull-through" effect beginning to take shape.

4. Repeat and Volumize

Repeat the process: Split the top ponytail (the one currently on top) into two, flip the bottom ponytail up through the middle, clip it away, and combine the split ends with a new section of hair, securing with a band. Continue this rhythm down the length of the head. As you work, gently tug on the edges of the loops (often called "pancaking") to fan them out. On coily hair, this creates massive volume and mimics the look of a complex, thick braid.

Variations for Coily Textures

The versatility of the pull-through braid makes it adaptable to various lengths and densities of coily hair. One popular variation is the Double Pull-Through Pigtails. This involves parting the hair down the center and creating two parallel pull-through braids. This style is playful, distributes tension more evenly across the head, and is often easier to sleep on than a single central braid. It frames the face beautifully and allows for the natural texture to shine through in the puffed sections.

Another sophisticated option is the Pull-Through Updo. Instead of braiding all the way down the back, the hair is directed upward from the nape and downward from the hairline to meet at the crown. The remaining ends can be tucked and pinned into a bun or left loose to create a textured puff. This variation is elegant and perfect for formal occasions, keeping the hair completely off the neck and shoulders.

For those with shorter coily hair, extensions can be seamlessly integrated. By feeding in marley hair or kanekalon hair into each ponytail section before securing the elastic, one can add both length and volume. This creates a Feed-In Pull-Through effect that looks incredibly natural because the textured extensions blend well with the coily hair within the loops.

Maintenance and Nighttime Care

Preserving a pull-through braid on coily hair requires a dedicated nighttime routine. Friction is the enemy of this style. Cotton pillowcases can suck moisture from the hair and cause frizz at the roots. It is imperative to wear a silk or satin scarf or bonnet. The scarf should be tied around the perimeter of the head to keep the edges laid and the roots smooth. If the braid is long, it can be loosely pinned up or tucked inside a long bonnet.

Daily moisture maintenance is also required. While heavy creams might cause buildup if applied daily, a light refreshing spray or a water-based leave-in conditioner mist should be spritzed onto the braid loops every morning or evening. This keeps the coils inside the loops hydrated and prevents them from becoming brittle. A light coat of oil can be applied to the scalp to prevent itchiness, which is common when hair is parted and exposed to air.

Generally, a pull-through braid can last anywhere from one to two weeks on coily hair. Keeping it in longer than two weeks is usually discouraged as the hair at the roots will begin to mat and lock together, making the takedown process difficult and potentially damaging. Regular scalp checks are recommended to ensure no irritation is occurring from the bands.

The Takedown Strategy: Preventing Breakage

The removal process is arguably the most critical phase for retaining length. Never attempt to pull or slide the elastic bands out of coily hair. The friction will strip the cuticle and snap the hair strands. The safest method is to use a small pair of manicure scissors or a specialized seam ripper to carefully snip each elastic band. Oils applied during the installation help here, as they create a barrier between the band and the hair.

Work from the bottom of the braid up to the top. Once a band is cut, gently unwind the hair. Do not rush to comb it immediately. Apply a detangler or a slippery conditioner to the section and use fingers to gently separate the shed hair (hair that has naturally fallen out but is trapped in the style) from the attached hair. Only after finger detangling should a wide-tooth comb be introduced. Rushing this process is the number one cause of setback in natural hair growth journeys.

After taking down the style, a thorough wash day is in order. A clarifying shampoo is often recommended to remove the gel and edge control buildup from the roots, followed by a deep conditioning treatment to restore elasticity and moisture to the coils that have been set in a fixed position for days.

Expert Tips for Flawless Pull-Through Braids

• Oil Your Bands: Soak your rubber bands in olive oil or almond oil for 24 hours before styling. This reduces the friction and makes them less likely to snap your hair.

• Hide the Bands: If you don't want the elastics to show, take a tiny sliver of hair from each ponytail section and wrap it around the elastic band to conceal it before moving to the next step.

• Mind the Tension: If you feel a headache coming on or see bumps forming at the root immediately after styling, the bands are too tight. Snip them immediately. No hairstyle is worth traction alopecia.

• Add Accessories: Coily hair looks stunning with adornments. Slide hair cuffs, beads, or wire string onto the sections between the loops to elevate the look from casual to festival-ready.

• Texture Matching: If using extensions, ensure the texture matches your blown-out natural hair. Using silky straight extensions with Type 4 hair can result in a disconnect where the natural hair reverts and pokes out of the smooth extension.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does a pull-through braid last on coily hair?

Typically, this style lasts between one to two weeks. While it can technically stay in longer, the buildup of product at the roots and the potential for matting makes two weeks the recommended maximum duration to ensure hair health.

Can I do this style on wet hair?

While possible, it is not recommended for coily hair. Wet hair shrinks significantly as it dries. If you secure wet hair with elastics, the hair will contract underneath the band, creating excessive tension that can lead to breakage. It is best to style on stretched, dry hair.

Is the pull-through braid damaging to Type 4 edges?

It can be if installed incorrectly. The key is to avoid pulling the hair too tightly into the first few sections near the hairline. Leaving the edges out to be styled separately with edge control, rather than pulling them into the main braid, is a safer alternative for delicate hairlines.

How do I wash my hair while it's in a pull-through braid?

Washing is not recommended for this specific style because the agitation of scrubbing will cause the roots to frizz instantly and the hair inside the loops to tangle. It is better to use a scalp astringent like witch hazel on a cotton pad to cleanse the exposed parts of the scalp without wetting the entire head.

Do I need extensions for this style?

Not necessarily. One of the benefits of coily hair is its natural volume. However, if your hair is shorter or you want a floor-length dramatic look, adding marley hair or kanekalon hair is a simple process and blends beautifully with textured hair.

Conclusion

The pull-through braid represents a perfect marriage of style and function for coily hair. It offers the protective benefits of keeping ends tucked away and manipulation low, while delivering a high-fashion, voluminous aesthetic that celebrates the density of Type 4 textures. By focusing on proper preparation, using the right tools, and executing a careful takedown, this style can become a staple in any natural hair styling rotation. Whether you are a novice looking for an alternative to cornrows or a styling enthusiast wanting to try something new, the pull-through braid is a versatile, stunning option that commands attention while caring for your coils.