The Feathered Hair and Big Perms of the 1980s | A Modern Revival Guide

The Decade of Decadence: An Introduction to 80s Hair

The 1980s was a decade of unapologetic excess. From neon leg warmers and shoulder pads to blockbuster movies and the birth of MTV, everything was bigger, bolder, and more dramatic. This philosophy extended wholeheartedly to hairstyles, creating some of the most iconic and recognizable looks in hair history. At the forefront of this revolution were two towering trends: the soft, flicked-back layers of feathered hair and the cloud-like volume of big perms. These styles weren't just about aesthetics; they were statements of confidence, individuality, and rebellion. The feathered hair and big perms of the 1980s defined a generation, gracing the heads of movie stars, rock gods, and teenagers in suburban malls alike.

While the days of crunchy, over-sprayed styles might seem distant, the influence of the 80s is making a powerful comeback in contemporary fashion and beauty. Modern interpretations of these classic looks, like the 'wolf cut' and the 'soft modern perm,' are appearing on runways and social media feeds, proving that great style never truly fades. This comprehensive guide will take you on a journey back in time to explore the cultural significance, the techniques, and the science behind the feathered hair and big perms of the 1980s. We will deconstruct these legendary styles and show you how their core principles of volume, texture, and movement can be adapted for a chic, modern look today.

Whether you're feeling nostalgic or seeking inspiration for your next bold hair transformation, understanding the legacy of 80s hair is essential. It's a story of innovation, artistry, and the power of a great haircut to define an era. Join us as we unpack the secrets behind achieving that perfect 80s volume and how a professional stylist can help you translate these retro trends into a stunning, wearable style for the 21st century.

The Cultural Zeitgeist: Why 80s Hair Reached for the Sky

The hairstyles of the 1980s didn't emerge in a vacuum. They were a direct reflection of the decade's vibrant and often audacious culture. The rise of the 24-hour music video channel, MTV, was arguably the single most significant influence. For the first time, musical artists were visual icons, broadcasting their looks directly into millions of homes. Bands like Bon Jovi, Poison, and Heart showcased colossal manes of teased, permed, and feathered hair, making volume synonymous with rock-and-roll rebellion. This visual-first approach to music meant that a band's look was as important as their sound, and big hair became the ultimate accessory.

Hollywood also played a pivotal role. Films like The Breakfast Club, Flashdance, and Dirty Dancing featured characters with hairstyles that were aspirational and imitable. Molly Ringwald's soft, voluminous bob and Jennifer Grey's iconic curls became benchmarks for teenage style. On the other end of the spectrum, the power-dressing women in shows like Dynasty and Dallas sported structured, heavily sprayed helmets of hair that communicated wealth and authority. This 'power hair' was the boardroom equivalent of a rockstar's mane, symbolizing the growing presence of women in the corporate world. The mantra was 'bigger is better,' and hair was a primary canvas for displaying confidence and ambition.

This cultural obsession with volume was also fueled by a sense of economic optimism and consumerism. It was a decade of more—more technology, more fashion, more everything. Hair followed suit, becoming a form of personal expression that was meant to be seen and noticed. The feathered hair and big perms of the 1980s were more than just trends; they were cultural artifacts, embodying the energy, extravagance, and aspirational spirit of the era. They were a rejection of the natural, understated looks of the 70s and a full-throated embrace of glamorous, high-maintenance self-expression.

Deconstructing the Feathered Phenomenon

While often associated with the 70s thanks to stars like Farrah Fawcett, the feathered hairstyle was perfected and popularized on a massive scale in the 1980s. The core technique involved cutting hair into long layers, with the shortest layers on top and gradually lengthening towards the bottom. The magic, however, was in the styling. The hair was brushed or blown-dry backwards and away from the face, creating soft 'wings' on either side that 'feathered' back. This created incredible movement and a face-framing effect that was universally flattering.

The Art of the Layer

The success of the feathered look depended entirely on the quality of the cut. A stylist would use specific layering techniques to remove weight while building shape. Unlike a blunt cut, which can lay flat, the layers in a feathered style were designed to work with each other to create lift and volume from the root. The 'wings' were often enhanced with a large round brush during a blow-dry, curling the ends outwards to create that signature flick. This meticulous styling was what separated a truly great feathered cut from a simple layered look.

For Everyone: The Unisex Appeal

One of the most remarkable aspects of the feathered hairstyle was its unisex appeal. It was just as popular on men as it was on women. Male movie stars like Rob Lowe and John Stamos, as well as rock musicians, sported feathered cuts that ranged from subtle and sophisticated to wild and voluminous. This gender fluidity in hairstyling was a hallmark of the 80s glam rock scene and helped break down traditional grooming barriers. For both men and women, the feathered cut offered a way to look polished yet effortlessly cool, a combination that defined the decade's aesthetic.

The Perm Powerhouse: Science and Style of the Permanent Wave

If feathered hair was about soft movement, the perm was about bold, unapologetic structure. The permanent wave, or 'perm,' was the undisputed king of 80s hair transformations, allowing people to achieve the voluminous curls and waves they saw on their favorite stars. This chemical process permanently altered the hair's structure, turning straight or slightly wavy locks into a cascade of curls. The 80s perm was not subtle; it was about creating a dense, powerful silhouette that often defied gravity.

The Chemical Transformation

The science behind a perm involves a two-step chemical process. First, a waving lotion containing a reducing agent, typically ammonium thioglycolate, is applied to hair that has been wrapped around perm rods. This chemical breaks the disulfide bonds in the hair's keratin structure, which are responsible for its natural shape. Once the bonds are broken, the hair is malleable and can take on the shape of the rod. After a processing period, a neutralizer (an oxidizing agent like hydrogen peroxide) is applied. This reforms the disulfide bonds in their new, curled position, locking the shape in place. The size of the perm rod directly determined the tightness of the curl—small rods for tight spiral perms, larger rods for looser body waves.

From Spiral Curls to Body Waves

The 80s saw a wide variety of perm styles. The most iconic was the tight, frizzy 'poodle perm,' but the spiral perm was also incredibly popular, creating long, corkscrew curls. For those seeking volume without intense curls, the body wave offered a softer, wavier texture that provided lift and support for other styles, including the feathered look. The combination of a perm and a layered cut was the ultimate power duo for achieving maximum 80s volume. This versatility ensured that the perm could be customized, making it a go-to service in every professional hair salon.

The Tools of the Trade: Your 80s Hair Arsenal

Achieving the signature volume of the feathered hair and big perms of the 1980s required more than just a great cut or chemical service; it demanded a dedicated arsenal of styling tools and products. This was the era where styling at home became an art form, and the bathroom counter of any fashion-conscious individual was likely cluttered with the essentials for creating gravity-defying hair.

At the top of the list was hairspray, and one brand reigned supreme: Aqua Net. Known for its legendary, helmet-like hold, this aerosol spray was the glue that held the era's towering styles together. It was applied liberally to lock in teased roots and perfectly sculpted wings. Following closely behind was mousse, a relatively new product at the time. Applied to damp hair, mousse provided volume, hold, and texture without the stickiness of older gels, making it a perfect foundation for blow-drying. For heat styling, hot rollers and curling irons were indispensable. Large hot rollers were used to create the soft, bouncy volume needed for feathered looks, while smaller curling irons could enhance or touch up permed curls. And no 80s toolkit would be complete without a teasing comb (or rat-tail comb) for building incredible lift at the crown and a blow dryer with a diffuser attachment to dry permed hair without creating excess frizz.

The Modern Take: How to Wear 80s Hair Today

The most exciting part about the resurgence of 80s trends is seeing how they are reinterpreted for the modern era. The core principles of volume, texture, and layering are timeless, but today's approach is softer, healthier, and more personalized. Gone are the days of stiff, crunchy hair; the new 80s-inspired styles are all about touchable movement and a more lived-in feel.

The Evolution of the Feathered Cut

The direct descendant of the 80s feathered look can be seen in today's most popular haircuts, such as the 'wolf cut' and the 'shag.' These styles embrace heavy layering and a face-framing fringe, just like their predecessor. However, the modern version is often styled with a texturizing spray or salt spray rather than a round brush and hairspray, resulting in a more piecey, undone finish. The 'wings' are less pronounced, blending more seamlessly into the rest of the hair. This updated take offers the flattering shape of the classic feathered style with a contemporary, low-maintenance edge.

The New Perm

The perm has also undergone a dramatic transformation. The 'modern perm' or 'digital perm' uses advanced formulas and techniques to create soft, natural-looking waves and curls. Today's stylists can use a variety of rod sizes and wrapping patterns to customize the texture, from loose beach waves to bouncy, defined curls. The chemical solutions are also far gentler on the hair, and when paired with professional conditioning treatments, a modern perm can leave hair feeling healthy and soft. It's no longer about creating a rigid style but about enhancing the hair's natural texture and making daily styling easier.

Tips for Getting the 80s Look Without the Damage

Loving the 80s vibe but wary of the high maintenance and potential for damage? Here are some professional tips for channeling that retro volume in a modern, hair-healthy way.

• Consult a Professional: The key to a great 80s-inspired look is a flawless haircut. An experienced stylist can create the right layers for a modern shag or wolf cut that will give you volume without you having to tease it aggressively every day. They can also advise if your hair type is suitable for a modern perm.

• Embrace Modern Products: Ditch the alcohol-heavy hairsprays of the past. Modern texturizing sprays, volumizing mousses, and flexible-hold hairsprays provide excellent lift and hold without making hair stiff or dry. A good root-lift spray applied before blow-drying can also work wonders.

• Heatless Volume: Instead of scorching your hair daily with a curling iron, try heatless methods. Using large velcro rollers on nearly dry hair can create incredible bounce and volume with minimal damage. Sleeping with your hair in braids can also create a nice wave pattern that mimics a body wave.

• Master the Blow-Dry: A good blow-drying technique is crucial. Use a round brush and focus on lifting the roots as you dry. For curly or permed hair, a diffuser is non-negotiable. It distributes heat evenly to dry curls without blowing them apart, which prevents frizz and enhances definition.

• Prioritize Hair Health: The foundation of any great style is healthy hair. Invest in sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners, especially for permed or colored hair. A weekly deep conditioning mask or treatment will replenish moisture and keep your hair resilient against styling stress.

Frequently Asked Questions About 80s Hair

What is the difference between a 70s and 80s feathered hairstyle?

The 70s feathered look, famously worn by Farrah Fawcett, was generally softer, longer, and had more of a 'flicked' or 'flipped' appearance at the ends. The 80s version took this foundation and amplified it, often incorporating shorter, more voluminous layers on top, more aggressive 'wings,' and sometimes combining it with a perm or crimping for added texture and height.

Are 80s-style perms damaging to hair?

Historically, the harsh chemicals and less sophisticated techniques used for 80s perms could be quite damaging. However, modern perm technology and formulas are significantly gentler. When performed by a skilled professional on healthy, virgin hair, a modern perm can be safe. It is crucial to have a consultation, as perming heavily bleached or already damaged hair is generally not recommended.

How long does a modern perm last?

A modern perm typically lasts between three to six months, depending on your hair type, the tightness of the curl, and how fast your hair grows. As your hair grows out, the perm will soften and the contrast between your natural texture and the permed ends will become more noticeable.

Can I get a perm on colored hair?

It is possible, but it requires extreme caution and the expertise of a highly skilled stylist. Both coloring and perming are chemical processes that alter the hair's structure. Performing them on the same hair requires careful assessment of the hair's condition. Generally, it's safer to perm hair that has been treated with semi-permanent color or highlights rather than hair that has been fully bleached.

What's the best haircut for achieving a modern feathered look?

The best cuts are those that focus on layering, such as the modern shag, the wolf cut, or the 'butterfly' cut. These styles have built-in layers that are designed to be styled away from the face, creating that soft, feathered effect with a contemporary, textured finish.

What products are essential for maintaining voluminous 80s-inspired hair?

A core toolkit should include a volumizing mousse or root lifter to use on damp hair, a texturizing spray for adding grit and hold to dry hair, and a flexible-hold hairspray to lock in the style without stiffness. For those with permed or curly hair, a curl cream and a diffuser are essential for definition and frizz control.

Conclusion: The Enduring Legacy of Big Hair

The feathered hair and big perms of the 1980s were more than just a passing fad; they were a cultural phenomenon that captured the audacious spirit of a decade. These styles celebrated volume, texture, and a fearless approach to self-expression that continues to inspire us today. While the methods and products have evolved, the desire for hair that makes a statement remains.

The modern revival of these iconic looks proves their timeless appeal. The soft layers of a feathered cut and the beautiful texture of a perm can be tailored by a professional stylist to suit any face shape, hair type, and lifestyle. By embracing the principles of the 80s—volume, movement, and confidence—while utilizing modern techniques and healthier products, you can pay homage to this incredible era of hair artistry. Whether you opt for a subtle nod with face-framing layers or go all-in with a modern body wave, the spirit of the 80s is ready for its 21st-century close-up.