The Ultimate Guide to Wick Dreads: Origin, Maintenance, and Style | Wick Locs Explained

In the evolving landscape of natural hair and loc culture, few styles make as bold a statement as Wick Dreads. Often referred to simply as "Wicks," "Bonks," or "Globs," this hairstyle is characterized by a very small number of incredibly thick, cylindrical locs. Unlike traditional locs, where a person might have anywhere from 80 to over 100 strands, a full head of wicks typically consists of only 4 to 12 locs in total. This distinctive look has transcended its regional origins to become a global phenomenon, celebrated for its gravity-defying appearance and cultural weight.

While the aesthetic is undeniably striking, achieving and maintaining healthy wicks requires a specific set of knowledge and a dedication to proper hair care. It is not merely about letting hair mat together; it is a cultivated, manicured style that demands professional technique to ensure the integrity of the hair shaft and the health of the scalp. As this style gains traction in professional salons worldwide, understanding the nuances of wicks—from their installation to their unique drying requirements—is essential for anyone considering this transformation.

This comprehensive guide will explore the history of wick dreads, the differences between wicks and other thick loc styles, the various methods of installation, and the critical maintenance routines required to keep them clean and healthy. Whether you are looking to combine your existing microlocs into wicks or starting from loose natural hair, this article covers every angle of the process.

What Are Wick Dreads? Defining the Look

Wick dreads are a sub-style of dreadlocks defined primarily by their thickness and density. The name "Wicks" is widely believed to be derived from the wicks of a candle, referencing the way the locs stand straight up, particularly when they are fresh or shorter in length. The tips of these locs are usually rounded and smooth, giving them a very uniform, rope-like appearance that differs significantly from the textured look of freeform locs.

The anatomy of a wick is unique. Because so much hair is compacted into a single loc, the matrix of the hair is incredibly dense. This density allows wicks to grow quite long without breaking, provided the root system is maintained. However, this same density presents unique challenges, particularly regarding weight and moisture retention. Visually, wicks offer a clean, minimalist aesthetic due to the clear, large parting sections on the scalp. The parts are often geometric—squares, triangles, or diamonds—making the scalp highly visible and an integral part of the finished look.

It is important to distinguish wicks from "Congo locs." While both are thick, Congo locs are typically formed organically when two or more mature locs fuse together naturally at the root over time, often retaining separate distinct ends. Wicks, conversely, are intentionally manipulated to be a single, solid cylinder from root to tip. The finish on a wick is usually much smoother and tighter than a Congo, achieved through specific crochet techniques that pull loose hairs into the core of the loc.

The Florida Connection: History and Cultural Significance

To understand wicks, one must look to South Florida. This hairstyle is deeply rooted in the cultural fabric of Miami and surrounding areas. For decades, it was a localized style, often associated with specific neighborhoods and subcultures within the Afro-diasporic community in Florida. It was a symbol of identity, distinct from the loc styles seen in New York, Jamaica, or Atlanta.

The global explosion of wick dreads can be largely attributed to the rise of Florida-based hip-hop artists, most notably Kodak Black. When high-profile celebrities began sporting the style, it garnered international attention, moving from a regional staple to a requested style in salons across Europe, Africa, and the Americas. Social media platforms like Instagram and TikTok further accelerated this trend, with stylists showcasing the dramatic "before and after" transformations of combining traditional locs into wicks.

Despite its mainstream adoption, the style retains its cultural significance. It represents a departure from the Eurocentric standards of hair beauty, embracing a texture and volume that is unapologetically bold. For many, wearing wicks is a form of expression that signals confidence and a connection to the raw, innovative spirit of Black hair culture.

Methods of Installation: How Wicks Are Created

Creating wicks is a labor-intensive process that should ideally be performed by an experienced loctician. There are generally three main avenues to achieving this style: starting from loose hair, combining existing locs, or using extensions. Each method has its own timeline and structural implications.

The Crochet Method (Instant Locking)

This is the most common technique for creating wicks, whether starting from loose hair or combining locs. A stylist uses a very fine crochet hook (typically 0.5mm to 0.75mm) to manually weave and knot the hair strands together. This process creates an internal mesh that locks the hair instantly. When starting from loose hair, the stylist sections the head into large parts, backcombs the hair, and then meticulously crochets the hair into a solid cylinder. This method provides immediate results, meaning the client leaves the salon with fully formed locs, though they will still go through a maturation phase.

The Rubber Band Method

While less professional and often frowned upon by purists, the rubber band method is sometimes used as a DIY approach or a preliminary step. Hair is sectioned and secured with rubber bands at the root and potentially down the shaft to hold the hair together while it naturally mats. However, this method is risky. Rubber bands can cut into the hair shaft, cause breakage, and melt into the hair over time. Furthermore, the locking process is much slower, and the result is rarely as smooth or uniform as the crochet method. Most professional salons will advise against this method for wicks due to the high risk of thinning roots.

Combining Existing Locs

This is perhaps the most popular way to transition into wicks today. A person with 100 traditional locs might decide they want the wick look. A stylist will bundle multiple existing locs (e.g., 10 locs into 1 wick) and use the crochet needle to fuse them together. The stylist wraps loose hair or uses the existing hair to crochet the bundle into a single, seamless unit. This transformation is dramatic and allows the client to keep their length while completely changing their aesthetic.

The Maintenance Routine: Keeping Wicks Healthy

Many assume that because wicks look robust, they require less care. The opposite is true. The thickness of the loc creates a dense environment that can trap debris, soap residue, and moisture. Proper maintenance is non-negotiable to prevent mold and breakage.

Washing and Deep Cleansing

Washing wicks requires patience. Water does not penetrate the core of a thick wick as easily as it does loose hair. You must squeeze the shampoo and water into the loc and, more importantly, squeeze it all out. Residue buildup is the enemy of wicks. If shampoo is left in the center of the loc, it can cause itching and buildup that looks like lint. Clarifying shampoos and apple cider vinegar (ACV) soaks are highly recommended every few months to strip away internal buildup.

The Critical Importance of Drying

This is the single most important aspect of wick maintenance. Because wicks are so thick, they hold water like a sponge. If the interior of the loc remains damp for too long (typically more than 24 hours), it creates a breeding ground for mildew and mold. This is known as "loc rot," characterized by a sour smell and eventual decaying of the hair structure. Air drying is rarely sufficient for wicks. Using a hooded dryer for a significant amount of time is mandatory after every wash. Clients should expect to sit under a dryer for 1 to 2 hours depending on the length and density of their wicks.

Retwisting and Root Care

Because wicks are heavy, the new growth at the root bears a significant load. If the roots are not maintained, the weight of the wick can cause thinning or traction alopecia. Retwisting typically involves gathering the new growth and incorporating it into the base of the wick, often using a crochet needle or a palm-rolling technique with gel. However, retwisting too tightly or too frequently can also cause tension alopecia. A balance must be struck—usually every 6 to 8 weeks—to ensure the roots are strong enough to support the heavy locs without being pulled too tight.

Pros and Cons of Choosing Wick Dreads

Before committing to this permanent style, it is vital to weigh the advantages against the potential drawbacks. Wicks are a lifestyle change, not just a haircut.

The Advantages

Low Manipulation: Once installed, wicks do not require daily styling. You wake up, and your hair is done.

Durability: Wicks are incredibly strong and unlikely to snap in the middle of the shaft compared to microlocs.

Statement Style: They offer a unique, high-fashion look that stands out in any crowd.

Faster Retwist Time: Because there are fewer locs (e.g., 8 vs. 100), the actual time spent sitting in the chair for a retwist is significantly shorter than traditional locs.

The Disadvantages

Weight: When wet, wicks can be extremely heavy, putting strain on the neck. Even when dry, long wicks have substantial weight.

Drying Time: As mentioned, the drying process is long and requires equipment (hooded dryer).

Permanence: Combing out wicks is nearly impossible without cutting. It is a commitment.

Cost: The initial installation or combination service is expensive due to the labor involved, often costing hundreds or even over a thousand dollars depending on the salon.

Professional Tips for Wick Success

If you are ready to take the plunge, here are some expert tips to ensure your journey is smooth.

Sleep with a Satin Bonnet: Friction is damaging. Always cover your wicks at night to prevent lint accumulation and dryness. Because wicks are large, you may need a specialized, extra-large bonnet.

Monitor Your Edges: The locs around the hairline are most prone to thinning. If a wick feels too heavy for the hair supporting it, consult a professional immediately. They may need to combine it with a neighbor or reduce the length to save the root.

Don't Over-Oil: Heavy greases and waxes are difficult to wash out of wicks. Stick to light, natural oils like jojoba or peppermint oil for the scalp, and water-based mists for the locs.

Cover While Cleaning: When doing dusty housework or yard work, cover your hair. Wicks are magnets for lint, and once lint gets embedded in the matrix of a wick, it is very difficult to remove.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: Do wick dreads hurt? A: The installation process can be uncomfortable due to the pulling and crocheting required to tighten the hair. Additionally, for the first few days after installation or a retwist, the scalp may be sore due to the tension and the new weight distribution. This usually subsides within a week.

Q: Can you comb out wicks if you change your mind? A: Technically, anything is possible, but realistically, no. The hair in a wick is so densely matted and knotted that combing it out would take an exorbitant amount of time and result in massive hair loss. Wicks should be considered a permanent style, usually removed by cutting.

Q: How many wicks should I get? A: This depends on the density of your hair and the size of your head. Most people aim for between 4 and 12 wicks. Going fewer than 4 can be risky as the sections become too large and heavy for the roots to support comfortably.

Q: Why are my wicks standing up? A: This is a signature characteristic of the style! Because the locs are thick and the structure is rigid, they defy gravity, especially when they are shorter (shoulder length or above). As they grow longer and heavier, they will eventually begin to drop, but the "standing up" phase is often desired.

Q: How much does it cost to get wicks? A: Pricing varies wildly by location and stylist expertise. However, because creating wicks (especially combining existing locs) is a grueling process that can take 8-12 hours, expect to pay a premium. Prices often range from $500 to $1500+ for the initial service.

Conclusion

Wick dreads are more than just a trend; they are a bold celebration of texture and a testament to the versatility of natural hair. Whether inspired by the Florida hip-hop scene or simply drawn to the unique, architectural aesthetic of thick locs, choosing wicks is a decision that transforms your entire look. While the maintenance—specifically drying and root care—requires discipline, the payoff is a low-manipulation, high-impact style that is durable and distinct.

If you are considering this style, the most important step is finding a qualified professional who specializes in the crochet method and understands the physics of hair weight. With the right installation and a commitment to proper care, wicks can be a healthy, flourishing journey that sets you apart from the crowd.