Victorian Hairstyles: A Timeless Guide to 19th Century Elegance | Vintage Hair Trends
The Victorian era, spanning the reign of Queen Victoria from 1837 to 1901, was a period of immense change, industrialization, and evolving fashion. However, few aspects of this era are as captivating or as intricate as Victorian hairstyles. For modern hair enthusiasts, historians, and brides-to-be looking for a touch of antique romance, the hair trends of the 19th century offer a treasure trove of inspiration. Unlike the loose, beachy waves of today, Victorian hair was an art form—a symbol of status, femininity, and societal standing.
In this comprehensive guide, we will journey through the three distinct phases of the Victorian era, exploring how hairstyles evolved from the demure loops of the 1840s to the imposing pompadours of the 1890s. We will also discuss the tools used, the secrets of volume before the invention of hairspray, and how professional stylists today are reinterpreting these classic looks for modern occasions.
The Early Victorian Era (1837–1860): Romance and Modesty
When Queen Victoria first ascended the throne, the prevailing fashion was one of demure romanticism. The hairstyles of the Early Victorian period reflected the societal expectations of women: modest, domestic, and gentle. The silhouette of the hair was designed to frame the face softly, often mimicking the shape of a heart or an oval.
The Apollo Knot and Spaniel Loops
One of the most iconic looks from the early years of Victoria's reign was the use of "Spaniel Loops" or "Barley Curls." This style involved a severe center part—an absolute non-negotiable in hair fashion for decades—with the hair sleeked down flat against the head. The lengths were then curled into loops or ringlets that hung over the ears, framing the face. The remainder of the hair was pulled back into a knot at the back of the head, often positioned high up towards the crown, known as an Apollo Knot. This knot was sometimes braided or twisted intricately, serving as a focal point for evening wear.
The Importance of the Center Part
During the 1840s and 1850s, a center part was synonymous with beauty and virtue. Side parts were rare and often considered unconventional or masculine. The hair was smoothed down with pomades or oils, creating a glossy, glass-like finish that shone under candlelight. This slickness was practical as well as aesthetic; it kept the hair contained and manageable in an era before electric styling tools. For modern reinterpretations, stylists often soften this look, keeping the center part but adding a bit more texture to the sides to flatter contemporary face shapes.
The Mid-Victorian Era (1860–1880): Volume and Complexity
As the century progressed, skirts became wider with the introduction of the crinoline, and hairstyles expanded to balance the silhouette. The Mid-Victorian era saw a shift away from the drooping curls of the early years toward more complex, voluminous styles focused at the back of the head.
The Rise of the Chignon
By the 1860s, the focus of the hairstyle moved to the nape of the neck. The "chignon"—a large roll or knot of hair—became the dominant style. These chignons were often massive, requiring more hair than the average woman possessed. This necessity gave rise to a booming industry in false hair pieces. Women would use "rats" (pads made of their own shed hair collected from brushes) or purchased hairpieces to bulk up their styles. The hair was often swept back from the forehead, sometimes with a slight wave, and gathered into heavy, intricate coils at the back.
Braids and Coronets
Braiding became incredibly popular during this middle period. Intricate plaits were used to decorate the chignon or were wrapped around the head like a crown or coronet. The "waterfall" effect also gained popularity, where ringlets were allowed to cascade from the chignon down the neck, adding a sense of movement and softness to the heavy updos. This era is a favorite reference point for modern bridal stylists, as the combination of structured updos and romantic plaits translates beautifully to wedding ceremonies.
The Late Victorian Era (1880–1901): The Pompadour and The Gibson Girl
Toward the end of the century, the silhouette of women's fashion changed dramatically again. The bustle disappeared, skirts became more streamlined, and the "New Woman" began to emerge—active, educated, and sporty. Hairstyles reflected this shift, moving the volume from the back of the head to the top and front.
Fringes and Frizzing
In the 1880s, a controversial trend emerged: the fringe (or bangs). Initially popularized by the Princess of Wales, curled bangs covering the forehead became the height of fashion. This was a stark departure from the exposed foreheads of the previous decades. Alongside fringes, "frizzing" the hair—creating tiny, tight crimps—became popular. This texture helped create volume and held styles in place better than silky, straight hair. To achieve this, women used heated curling tongs, a risky endeavor that often resulted in singed locks.
The Gibson Girl Silhouette
By the 1890s, the iconic "Gibson Girl" look began to take shape, although it would reach its peak in the Edwardian era. This style featured hair that was loosely swept up from the face into a soft, voluminous cloud or pompadour on top of the head, secured into a bun at the very top. This style was softer, airier, and more feminine than the severe styles of the mid-century. It required significant teasing (backcombing) and padding to achieve the gravity-defying height that characterized the fin de siècle.
Accessories: The Crowning Jewels
No Victorian hairstyle was complete without the appropriate ornamentation. Hair accessories were not just decorative; they communicated grief, wealth, and marital status.
Combs, Pins, and Bonnets
Decorative combs made of tortoiseshell, ivory, or silver were essential for securing heavy chignons. In the evening, women adorned their hair with fresh flowers, ostrich feathers, or ribbons that matched their gowns. During the day, however, hair was almost always covered when outdoors. Bonnets were mandatory for modest women in the early and mid-Victorian periods. As hairstyles grew in volume in the late Victorian era, bonnets gave way to smaller hats perched atop the high hairstyles, secured with long, lethal-looking hatpins.
Mourning Jewelry
The Victorian obsession with mourning extended to hair accessories. Jet (a type of fossilized wood) was carved into intricate combs and pins for women in mourning. Furthermore, hair jewelry—brooches, lockets, and woven chains made from the hair of deceased loved ones—was worn as a sentimental tribute, often pinned into the hairstyle itself.
The Science of Victorian Hair Care
Understanding Victorian hairstyles requires a look at their hair care regimen, which was vastly different from modern standards. The hygiene practices of the 19th century directly influenced the texture and manageability of the hair.
The Myth of Dirty Hair
It is a common misconception that Victorian women had dirty hair. While they did not wash their hair daily or even weekly, they maintained hygiene through vigorous brushing. The "100 strokes a day" rule was a literal cleaning method; brushing with a boar bristle brush distributed natural oils from the scalp down the hair shaft and removed dust and debris. When they did wash their hair (usually once a month), they used ammonia, egg yolks, or diluted soap, followed by vinegar rinses to restore shine.
Length and Preservation
Long hair was the ultimate symbol of femininity. Women rarely cut their hair, leading to lengths that often reached the knees. This extreme length was necessary to create the elaborate, voluminous updos of the time. To preserve the health of these long tresses, women slept in loose braids and used silk nightcaps to prevent friction and breakage.
Modern Interpretations for Special Occasions
Today, the influence of Victorian hair fashion is undeniable, particularly in the realm of formal styling and bridal trends. Professional salons often see requests for "vintage romance" or "period drama" aesthetics, which are direct descendants of 19th-century styles.
The Neo-Victorian Bride
For the modern bride, a full Victorian reproduction might feel too costumey, but elements of the era are timeless. A popular adaptation is the "messy chignon," which takes the structure of the Mid-Victorian bun but loosens the texture for a more contemporary, ethereal vibe. Incorporating braids into a low bun or using pearl-encrusted pins can evoke the Victorian spirit without looking dated.
Steampunk and Avant-Garde
The Steampunk subculture heavily borrows from Late Victorian aesthetics. These styles often exaggerate the Gibson Girl pompadour or the Mid-Victorian mohawk-like braids, incorporating industrial elements like gears, copper wire, and leather into the hair. For editorial shoots or themed events, stylists can push the boundaries of volume and texture, using crimpers and padding to create architectural shapes reminiscent of 1880s frizzed styles.
Tips for Achieving a Victorian-Inspired Look
If you are interested in trying a Victorian-inspired style for an event, or if you are a stylist looking to recreate these looks, consider these professional tips:
- Texture is Key: Victorian hair was rarely silky smooth. It had grit and texture. Use a texturizing spray or dry shampoo to give the hair 'grip' before styling. This mimics the texture of hair that hasn't been washed with modern stripping shampoos.
- Use Padding: Do not rely on hair density alone. Use hair donuts, sponges, or extensions to create the necessary volume for chignons and pompadours. The silhouette is impossible to achieve with natural hair alone for most people.
- The Art of Backcombing: Teasing or backcombing is essential for the Late Victorian pompadour look. Ensure you backcomb the roots gently but firmly to build a cushion for the hair to rest on.
- Accessorize Wisely: A simple velvet ribbon or a pearl comb can instantly transform a generic updo into a Victorian statement. Placement is crucial; lower for early Victorian vibes, higher for late Victorian energy.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. Did Victorian women ever cut their hair?
Generally, no. Long hair was a symbol of womanhood. However, cutting the front hair to create a fringe (bangs) became acceptable and fashionable in the 1880s. Short hair on women was usually only seen in cases of severe illness (where it was shaved to lower fever) or extreme poverty.2. How did they curl their hair without electricity?
They used metal tongs heated in the coals of a fire. This was a dangerous practice that often resulted in burnt hair or scalp burns. They also used "rag curls," where damp hair was wrapped around strips of fabric and slept in overnight—a much safer and healthier method that is still effective today.3. What is a "hair rat"?
A hair rat was a DIY hair pad. Women would collect the loose hair from their hairbrushes in a jar. Once they had enough, they would stuff it into a hairnet or mold it into a shape to use as padding inside their hairstyles to add volume.4. How long did it take to style Victorian hair?
For a wealthy woman with a lady's maid, styling could take up to an hour every morning and again before dinner. For working-class women, styles were simpler and practical, but still required long hair to be neatly pinned up to avoid getting caught in machinery or interfering with work.5. Can I achieve these styles with short hair?
While authentic Victorian styles require long hair, modern styling techniques using clip-in extensions or wigs can easily replicate the look. A skilled stylist can also create a "faux bob" or arrange short curls to mimic the silhouette of a pinned-up style.Conclusion
Victorian hairstyles serve as a fascinating mirror to the lives of 19th-century women. They tell a story of evolution from the demure and contained to the bold and voluminous. While we may no longer rely on heated tongs warmed in fireplaces or hair collected from our brushes, the elegance, structure, and artistry of these styles remain relevant.
Whether you are attending a vintage-themed gala, planning a wedding with a touch of historical charm, or simply appreciate the artistry of hair, the Victorian era offers endless inspiration. By understanding the history and techniques behind these looks, we can appreciate the skill involved in creating them and find new ways to weave the elegance of the past into the fashion of the future. If you are inspired to try a Victorian look, consult with a professional stylist who specializes in vintage hair to help you achieve a look that is both historically appreciative and beautifully modern.
